Not too sure where he got that trying to work on a black car with a PC7424XP was a bad idea.
Found where you have 4 orange, 3 white pads, 1 black, 2 red, and 1 blue pads, skimming over, I could not find the size of them.
This is what you are correcting
This is going could be a
fair amount of time to get out using a white pad and SSR2 on a PC.
I was nowhere near that many defects on the '07 G6 electric blue, and I had to work an Optimum MF Polishing pad and Opti Polish ( had not gotten to trying PP at that time ) and I think it took 3 ( 4? ) passes to get it to 95% defect free. The Opti Mf pad is similar to a White LC pad.
- I have always used the pattern for a pass, posted by Merlin, so that pattern run on the paint is 1 pass. Add to this I am using a Flex not a PC, so it is forced rotation DA, won't stop spinning no matter how much down pressure you use.
Friend had to do a Denali that looked like that, he started with a compound & Purple foamed wool pad on a rotary with 2 to 3 passes. Later switched up to an orange pad on the rotary with compound to cut the correction down to 1 pass to be ready for polish. That Denali took him ~ 8 hours to correct going compound and then a polish round then LSP. He used some very aggressive compound as well.
Given there is a very good chance that the Pontiac clear and other GM product clears are very different, this gives you an idea of what it might take time wise to get those out.
To give you an idea, this is what Tom had going for him when he started :
Given Tom is very well versed in a rotary, this is used to illustrate how long this might take to do with a PC7424XP.
A PC can do just about anything a Flex or rotary can do, it is just a matter of the amount of time to do it.
Unless you do something like put SSR2.5 on an orange pad, and hold the polisher slightly up so it will continually rotate with the oscillation on speed 6, you are not going to do anything bad to the paint. The part most wrong of this statement, is the mis application of SSR2.5 on Orange pad ( Steve noted this up the thread ).
Sure your weather was great yesterday, you missed out on a nice day, but more are coming.
When I did the trunk on the Mrs' G6, I cut it in half, and used that as a section to work on. Run some blue painters tape down the center of the trunk ( rear window to the lip of the trunk ), and use 2 strips of tape so you have room to over run and not work the other side in spots. and go at it. Start with the suggestions up the thread on SSR level and white pad, and have a go at it.
The PC will stop the rotational spinning if you press down too hard, it will have the motion of the Autozone 30.00 orbital buffer if you do this.
Working the paint I have found that it is easy to put marks into the clear ( depending on what you are doing ) but taking them out is not as easy, when using the correction combination of product & pad.
Make sure you mark a line on the backing plate so you can see if the pad is rotating.
Just keep in mind to start with the least aggressive and work you way up the aggressive tree. I know I am being too kind on it, but once I got into it, it took more than I thought it would. I really should have started with a light cutting pad. Once I do the full for the spring, I am going with a light cutting pad ( orange ) as a starting point.
This is not meant to be a recommendation on product pad combo, just an example of what you could be in for on the same paint.
I just did my sister's Honda yesterday, and it was not that bad. I took about 10 hours to do the complete exterior on it. A lot of marring in the paint, but not swirled up anywhere near that bad. I got pretty aggressive with pad & product on the flex to get correction on it.
