New Girl from Indiana
- Thread starter danielle
- Start date
Dani - Here's a couple of DA tips that might be useful...
The DA speed you use depends upon what you are trying to accomplish.
While an increase in pressure is necessary, it is not the only factor that should be addressed.
Proper priming of the pad is super important!
This one step will have more positive effect on polishing performance than anything else. A clean pad is equally important.
The pad should be rotating at all times. More speed is a good thing when heavy defect removal is the goal. This does not mean that slow rotation will not work. However - some pads rotate well while others do not. Oftentimes, if there is insufficient removal of defects even with a substantial amount of downward pressure, a swap of the pad to one that is more aggressive or smaller in diameter will work. The guys that are using smaller diameter pads to remove heavy defects are working smart- not hard.
After all of the defects have been satisfactorily removed, final polishing should be accomplished using the softest or mildest pad available.
For final polishing, prime the finishing pad as previously discussed, and let the pad sit for a few minutes. This will allow the buffing liquid some time to permeate the pore structure of the pad. Then, polish at a slow DA speed setting, making certain that the pad is able to rotate. It does not matter how many rotations there are, the goal is to minimize the chance of "flatspotting" the pad. Add small amounts of product as needed.
If some marring persists, super-clean the pad or replace it, re-prime, and then remove as much product as you can. There will still be some fresh and moist buffing liquid attached to the pad. Use a very slow speed setting, use constant pressure, and DO NOT lighten up at the end of the cycle.
SHORT VERSION:
Prime the pad with product before use to saturate the pad.
Use dime sized amounts of product on the pad for polishing.
Always apply med/heavy pressure depending on cut desired.
Use a soft pad, mild polish and slower speed to do finishing.
Do NOT lighten up on pressure to finish. Slow the DA speed.
The DA speed you use depends upon what you are trying to accomplish.
While an increase in pressure is necessary, it is not the only factor that should be addressed.
Proper priming of the pad is super important!
This one step will have more positive effect on polishing performance than anything else. A clean pad is equally important.
The pad should be rotating at all times. More speed is a good thing when heavy defect removal is the goal. This does not mean that slow rotation will not work. However - some pads rotate well while others do not. Oftentimes, if there is insufficient removal of defects even with a substantial amount of downward pressure, a swap of the pad to one that is more aggressive or smaller in diameter will work. The guys that are using smaller diameter pads to remove heavy defects are working smart- not hard.
After all of the defects have been satisfactorily removed, final polishing should be accomplished using the softest or mildest pad available.
For final polishing, prime the finishing pad as previously discussed, and let the pad sit for a few minutes. This will allow the buffing liquid some time to permeate the pore structure of the pad. Then, polish at a slow DA speed setting, making certain that the pad is able to rotate. It does not matter how many rotations there are, the goal is to minimize the chance of "flatspotting" the pad. Add small amounts of product as needed.
If some marring persists, super-clean the pad or replace it, re-prime, and then remove as much product as you can. There will still be some fresh and moist buffing liquid attached to the pad. Use a very slow speed setting, use constant pressure, and DO NOT lighten up at the end of the cycle.
SHORT VERSION:
Prime the pad with product before use to saturate the pad.
Use dime sized amounts of product on the pad for polishing.
Always apply med/heavy pressure depending on cut desired.
Use a soft pad, mild polish and slower speed to do finishing.
Do NOT lighten up on pressure to finish. Slow the DA speed.
zoomzoom mazda5
Helper
So how your doing on the car? Started yet?
Thanks for that Merlin. I gotta refresh myself before I tackle my car on Sunday.
And I haven't gotten to the black car yet. It's having leaky tire issues and is on the spare parked in the garage until further notice.
So Sunday, I am using my day off and starting on my car.
Which is what I thought about doing originally since the white will be a little more forgiving to practice on and I can get a better feel for the machine.
Don't worry, I will make threads on the cars when I do them
And I haven't gotten to the black car yet. It's having leaky tire issues and is on the spare parked in the garage until further notice.
So Sunday, I am using my day off and starting on my car.
Which is what I thought about doing originally since the white will be a little more forgiving to practice on and I can get a better feel for the machine.
Don't worry, I will make threads on the cars when I do them
Well, sad to say that there won't be a thread made for the GP today.
I woke up at 7 and got ready to head out...
It was a whole 7* outside and I decided staying healthy and not getting frost bite was in my best interest.
And the garage door at work was blocked by a good 3' drift.
But, Since I did attempt to wash it (very stupid on my part), I had a few clean panels after the sun melted the ice off.
So I used the SSR2 on a little section by hand and was very impressed with the improvements, can't wait to see what happens with the machine!
Sorry for the high hopes
I woke up at 7 and got ready to head out...
It was a whole 7* outside and I decided staying healthy and not getting frost bite was in my best interest.
And the garage door at work was blocked by a good 3' drift.
But, Since I did attempt to wash it (very stupid on my part), I had a few clean panels after the sun melted the ice off.
So I used the SSR2 on a little section by hand and was very impressed with the improvements, can't wait to see what happens with the machine!
Sorry for the high hopes
Sorry to hear that. It's 73* here and this is what it looks like outside.
So. Florida...Where the only ice is in your drink. Do you feel better now?
Spring will be here soon
Sorry to hear that. It's 73* here and this is what it looks like outside.
So. Florida...Where the only ice is in your drink. Do you feel better now?
just have to rub it in didnt ya ..lol ... it's a balmy 16*F here :smt080
Spring will be here soon
just have to rub it in didnt ya ..lol ... it's a balmy 16*F here :smt080
Don't you wish Detailfest was in January!
Was curious if you had a chance to start on either car yet ? ( don't know if you were in the same nice weather path that has happened the past 30 days ).
The one I am most interested in is the G6. I think I am being too much of a sissy with the paint, or it is hard paint. I am taking it easy on it, as not to get carried away in one fell swoop.
I have only gone to SSR1 on the Mrs's G6, with a white pad and the PC. In the spring I am going to go after the little left with the Flex and the white pad and SSR1, and then back down to PP and then PwC Blue ( Electric blue color ).
just looking for some specific feedback on what you find with GM paint, I am a bit new to GM paint, and don't want to have to paint the car due to stupidity.
The one I am most interested in is the G6. I think I am being too much of a sissy with the paint, or it is hard paint. I am taking it easy on it, as not to get carried away in one fell swoop.
I have only gone to SSR1 on the Mrs's G6, with a white pad and the PC. In the spring I am going to go after the little left with the Flex and the white pad and SSR1, and then back down to PP and then PwC Blue ( Electric blue color ).
just looking for some specific feedback on what you find with GM paint, I am a bit new to GM paint, and don't want to have to paint the car due to stupidity.
I would not recommend SSR1 with a white pad as you will get some marring. If going by the product selection above, I would use the PP with the white pad first and SSR1 with a Black or Red pad, then the PwCblue ... you could skip the SSR1 step if you want.
I would not recommend SSR1 with a white pad as you will get some marring. If going by the product selection above, I would use the PP with the white pad first and SSR1 with a Black or Red pad, then the PwCblue ... you could skip the SSR1 step if you want.
Crap, I'm wrong again....
I guess I missed this ( need to do a better job reading ).
PP is more aggressive than SSR1 ?
From what I read in threads ( prior to purchasing PP ) PP can be used on headlamps, where SSR1 does not say this. That is how I got into my head that SSR1 was more aggressive than PP.
I did just catch the thread ~ week back, where PP & PP2 are better on a Flex or Rotary ( Walter asked this ).
I was using PP & SSR1 on my Makita Selectable DA - Rotary and the rotary function is not a pure rotary, there is still some orbital action in the rotary mode.
With a 7.5 VC white pad in DA, it is hard to stall, but there is not a true forced rotation like the Flex has.
I guess it would be similar to a Dynabrade DA adapter for a rotary machine ( DA stroke is not as long as the Dynabrade ).
they are different types of polishes .. SSR1 is mechanical and has very little of it ... Professional Polish is a chemical polish and pad dependent.
SSR1 is basically a finishing and maintenance polish, and should only be used with finishing pads and sometime foamed wool, doesn't matter which machine. PP on the other hand can be used with any type of pad and any kind of machine. The trick to PP is figuring out what pad and what machine works best for you for the job at hand. Hope this helps..
SSR1 is basically a finishing and maintenance polish, and should only be used with finishing pads and sometime foamed wool, doesn't matter which machine. PP on the other hand can be used with any type of pad and any kind of machine. The trick to PP is figuring out what pad and what machine works best for you for the job at hand. Hope this helps..
no, not at all .. I usually use SSR1 & 2 with finishing or finessing pads, SSR2.5 with a polishing or cutting pad and SSR3, well that's tricky .. it depends on the machine and the experience of the person using the " liquid sand paper"
thanks for the pointer.
Sounds like the reason I did not move very fast on the defects on the G6 was I needed to use SSR 2.5 on a white pad. Maybe a Green / Orange depending on the results I get with SSR 2.5 and white.
End user error, replaced end user; tested OK.
- Will be as soon as I order the SSR 2.5 this weekend.:smt003
I used the ssr2 on a small spot by hand on the grand prix and am excited to see what happens with the machine. Haven't touched the g6 yet, fighting tire issues with it and its been garage ground for past month with a flat tire 75% of the time.
I did notice before that the paint on the g6 seems a lot softer than my previous 97 grand am and even the 99 gp paint is harder. Just goes to show how "cheap" the paint is getting, imo at least.
I did notice before that the paint on the g6 seems a lot softer than my previous 97 grand am and even the 99 gp paint is harder. Just goes to show how "cheap" the paint is getting, imo at least.