Newb with first REAL detail comin up soon! My plans...

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00blkGTP

Helper
I have a 2000 grand prix. Black. Car was completely repainted summer of '07, so the paint is in pretty good shape. swirls/ webs from normal wash-n-dry. I take really good care of it in the summer, but am looking to get more in depth as I have only gone as far as wash/clay/hand wax with $7 paste wax from auto zone. I'm ordering all my stuff next week, here is the list:

Porter Cable 7424
PB Waterless Wash (no access to a hose, live in apartment)
PB SSR 2.5
PB SSR 1
PB S&G
PB Natty's Blue
PB Black Hole Glaze
PB EX Carnauba Sealant
CCS Pads- Orange, Gray White
2 MF Towels
1 Guzzler

My question is, can someone give me a good order and way to apply these? From what I've gathered, it should go something like this...

Wash
Dry
Clay with s&g
ssr2.5 w/ orange pad
ssr1 w/ white pad
glaze w/ gray pad (2 coats maybe)
sealant w/ gray pad (2 coats maybe)
s&g

Am I on the right track? Should the pads be designated to 1 specific product or would it be ok to wash the gray pad after the glaze and use for sealant? Also I would like to work the natty's blue in there but not sure what step to apply. Can the wax be done with the PC or does it need to be done by hand? Can someone give me some tips as to what speeds to apply different product at? What are some pros/ cons to using too slow/ fast of a speed and too much/ little pressure. I was going to also use the sealant on my chrome wheels... is this ok? Thanks for the help, looks like a very nice, informative group here!

Sorry for all the ?'s lol. Just noticing there is ALOT of options for everything out there and I would like to make sure I'm on the right path. This economy has left me with not much money to play around with, but I still gotta have my car lookin good :wink:
 
Poorboy

Poorboy

Founder
Staff member
00blkGTP said:
I have a 2000 grand prix. Black. Car was completely repainted summer of '07, so the paint is in pretty good shape. swirls/ webs from normal wash-n-dry. I take really good care of it in the summer, but am looking to get more in depth as I have only gone as far as wash/clay/hand wax with $7 paste wax from auto zone. I'm ordering all my stuff next week, here is the list:

Porter Cable 7424
PB Waterless Wash (no access to a hose, live in apartment)
PB SSR 2.5
PB SSR 1
PB S&G
PB Natty's Blue
PB Black Hole Glaze
PB EX Carnauba Sealant
CCS Pads- Orange, Gray White
2 MF Towels
1 Guzzler

My question is, can someone give me a good order and way to apply these? From what I've gathered, it should go something like this...

Wash
Dry
Clay with s&g
ssr2.5 w/ orange pad
ssr1 w/ white pad
glaze w/ gray pad (2 coats maybe)
sealant w/ gray pad (2 coats maybe)
s&g

Am I on the right track? Should the pads be designated to 1 specific product or would it be ok to wash the gray pad after the glaze and use for sealant? Also I would like to work the natty's blue in there but not sure what step to apply. Can the wax be done with the PC or does it need to be done by hand? Can someone give me some tips as to what speeds to apply different product at? What are some pros/ cons to using too slow/ fast of a speed and too much/ little pressure. I was going to also use the sealant on my chrome wheels... is this ok? Thanks for the help, looks like a very nice, informative group here!

Sorry for all the ?'s lol. Just noticing there is ALOT of options for everything out there and I would like to make sure I'm on the right path. This economy has left me with not much money to play around with, but I still gotta have my car lookin good :wink:
Click to expand...

Welcome to our Forum :smt006

You are on the right track ... a couple of changes I would do ... after wash, don't dry but go right to claying..make sure the surface is cool ...and instead of the S&G, use Spray and Wipe. Dilute the bottle 50:50 so you have a more for claying or just get a bottle of Super Slick & Suds for the washing and use 1/4 ounce for a 32oz spray bottle (fill bottle with water first and then add 1/4 ounce of the SS&S and shake) makes a great lubricant and cheap. After you are done though you should rinse the vehicle and dry well before polishing. The advantage of using Spray and Wipe instead of soap is time. The paint will never be wet, and after each section of claying, you can wipe it off and you are ready to go the the polishing stage without the worry of drips.
I would get a few extra white and grey/black pads. It always good to have a couple extras. You could wash it out, but it should be dry or almost dry before putting a product on it.
Only one coat of glaze is needed and then yes two coats of sealant.
 
R

Redwings97

Advanced Helper
Poorboy said:
00blkGTP said:
I have a 2000 grand prix. Black. Car was completely repainted summer of '07, so the paint is in pretty good shape. swirls/ webs from normal wash-n-dry. I take really good care of it in the summer, but am looking to get more in depth as I have only gone as far as wash/clay/hand wax with $7 paste wax from auto zone. I'm ordering all my stuff next week, here is the list:

Porter Cable 7424
PB Waterless Wash (no access to a hose, live in apartment)
PB SSR 2.5
PB SSR 1
PB S&G
PB Natty's Blue
PB Black Hole Glaze
PB EX Carnauba Sealant
CCS Pads- Orange, Gray White
2 MF Towels
1 Guzzler

My question is, can someone give me a good order and way to apply these? From what I've gathered, it should go something like this...

Wash
Dry
Clay with s&g
ssr2.5 w/ orange pad
ssr1 w/ white pad
glaze w/ gray pad (2 coats maybe)
sealant w/ gray pad (2 coats maybe)
s&g

Am I on the right track? Should the pads be designated to 1 specific product or would it be ok to wash the gray pad after the glaze and use for sealant? Also I would like to work the natty's blue in there but not sure what step to apply. Can the wax be done with the PC or does it need to be done by hand? Can someone give me some tips as to what speeds to apply different product at? What are some pros/ cons to using too slow/ fast of a speed and too much/ little pressure. I was going to also use the sealant on my chrome wheels... is this ok? Thanks for the help, looks like a very nice, informative group here!

Sorry for all the ?'s lol. Just noticing there is ALOT of options for everything out there and I would like to make sure I'm on the right path. This economy has left me with not much money to play around with, but I still gotta have my car lookin good :wink:
Click to expand...

Welcome to our Forum :smt006

You are on the right track ... a couple of changes I would do ... after wash, don't dry but go right to claying..make sure the surface is cool ...and instead of the S&G, use Spray and Wipe. Dilute the bottle 50:50 so you have a more for claying or just get a bottle of Super Slick & Suds for the washing and use 1/4 ounce for a 32oz spray bottle (fill bottle with water first and then add 1/4 ounce of the SS&S and shake) makes a great lubricant and cheap. After you are done though you should rinse the vehicle and dry well before polishing. The advantage of using Spray and Wipe instead of soap is time. The paint will never be wet, and after each section of claying, you can wipe it off and you are ready to go the the polishing stage without the worry of drips.
I would get a few extra white and grey/black pads. It always good to have a couple extras. You could wash it out, but it should be dry or almost dry before putting a product on it.
Only one coat of glaze is needed and then yes two coats of sealant.
Click to expand...

Since you have no access to a hose -

1. order a gallon of Spray and Wipe (waterless wash). Buy some extra spray bottles. Use one spray bottle for S&W full strength for cleaning. Use 1 spray bottle for mixing the S&W 50:50 with water to use as your clay lube.
2. Pads - as Steve said - it does not hurt to have a couple extra white and gray pads laying around. This would prevent you from having to wash one to reuse right away. Also your white polishing pad can be used with SSR 1, but in some cases you can use SSR2.5 on a white pad.
3. Apply Nattys after your sealant, BUT your sealant must cure for a minimum of 24 hours. I have always used the microfiber applicators for Nattys, by hand. AS far as using a pad with Natty's, I do not know which one would be best.
4. Speeds - when apply the SSR2.5 and 1 - you want to apply the product to the pad, smear around on area to be polished, spread the polish on speed 3 and breakdown polish on speed 5 or 6. Most of the time I let the machine and product do the work, occasionally when needed I will use some pressure. You only learn by doing. Glazes - use speed 2 and only one coat. Sealants use speed 2 (I put 2 coats on back to back - 1st coat let dry to haze 30-60 minutes buff off repeat). Wax - I have no idea, but would probably use speed 2.
5. Chrome wheels - DO NOT use EXP or EX on your wheels. Use Poorboys wheel sealant - it is made for wheels and also the heat generated by them.

wow - I hope I covered everything for you
 
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00blkGTP

Helper
Thanks alot everyone for the help! It really helps having an idea on how to do stuff before I start. Looks like the nice weather is going to start holding up so hopefully I can get on this next weekend.

Is it possible to use too aggressive of a swirl remover? Since my paint just has webs and swirls would the ssr1 be ok to use? I dont know how to gauge what level of polishes to use. Should I try the ssr1 and if it doesnt turn out how I want it, go to the 2.5?


2. Pads - as Steve said - it does not hurt to have a couple extra white and gray pads laying around. This would prevent you from having to wash one to reuse right away. Also your white polishing pad can be used with SSR 1, but in some cases you can use SSR2.5 on a white pad.
Click to expand...

I thought you wanted to use cutting pads with those? Or does using it in combination with a white pad kind of give it "less cut"?
 
R

Redwings97

Advanced Helper
00blkGTP said:
Thanks alot everyone for the help! It really helps having an idea on how to do stuff before I start. Looks like the nice weather is going to start holding up so hopefully I can get on this next weekend.

Is it possible to use too aggressive of a swirl remover? Since my paint just has webs and swirls would the ssr1 be ok to use? I dont know how to gauge what level of polishes to use. Should I try the ssr1 and if it doesnt turn out how I want it, go to the 2.5?


2. Pads - as Steve said - it does not hurt to have a couple extra white and gray pads laying around. This would prevent you from having to wash one to reuse right away. Also your white polishing pad can be used with SSR 1, but in some cases you can use SSR2.5 on a white pad.
Click to expand...

I thought you wanted to use cutting pads with those? Or does using it in combination with a white pad kind of give it "less cut"?
Click to expand...

your question has me a little confused. If you are asking about using 2.5 with a white polishing pad - you can do that if you want. The white pad has hardly any cut, but the 2.5 has more abrasives in it which gives you some correction ability without the cut.

swirl removing - You can always try SSR 1 with a white polishing pad - if you do not like you can try SSR2.5 on a white polishing pad. If the swirls are still there - go to SSR 2.5 on an orange cut pad. You might have to address each panel differently depending on the condition of your paint.

I personally have more polishing pad in my arsenal than the cut pads. Today I polished a black Integra GSR using a Flex, SSR 1 and white polishing pads. There were 2 areas on the car where I went to the SSR2.5 on a white pad - did not like - so I went to the orange pad and SSR 2.5 and then finished those areas with SS1 and a white pad.

I think the car came out great. I wish i had some pictures but I sent the camera with the wife on a trip. I put two coats of EXP on it and tomorrow night it will get Nattys Blue spit shined with S&G.
 
0

00blkGTP

Helper
lol i could see how it would be confusing. ive done alot of reading today and i think i understand a little better now. why use a cutting pad? are they more used when alot of correcting is needed? i think when i do it ill start out with ssr1 on a white pad and see how that looks. all the panels are about the same kind of shape. not bad at all, but have the web in sunlight... it seems that the orange pad is more used with the ssr3, which would mean its more for very neglected paint. mine isnt that extreme.

reading on here has slightly changed my plan of attack. im def. going to start out more mild than i was planning, testing in 1 area to see what works best, and adjust accordingly. now, i have a question on the polish. is it necessary? will i be ok doing the ssr, black hole glaze, 2 coats ex sealant, natty's blue, or should i do the polish somewhere in there?

sorry for all the questions, and i know i wont fully grasp everything till i actually DO it, but the world of "full" detailing is new to me.
 
Poorboy

Poorboy

Founder
Staff member
ok I'll try to clear it up ...

yes, polishing is necessary... if you can see the swirls in any type of light then you need the SSR2.5 ..you can start with a white polishing pad, then go to the orange cutting pad if needed. SSR1 will NOT remove swirls it is the finishing polish to clear up marring and bring out the highest gloss the clearcoat can give. Never use SSR3 with a cutting pad unless the paint is trashed or you have wet sanded. Polishing once or twice a year with a mild polish whether you have swirls or not is a good idea. The polishing is what makes the shine, the glazes and waxes/sealants only seal it in and enhance it.

hope this helped :D
 
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00blkGTP

Helper
that seriously helped alot. now i know when the 2.5 should be used, which it does. should the scratches and swirls be gone after the 2.5 or am i not going to really notice until i use the ssr 1? just trying to see what results i should expect before moving onto the ssr1. thanks everyone! placed my order today

the scratches and swirls should be almost totally eliminated after 2.5 ...remember also that it may take more than one pass on some panels ...the SSR1 will remove any marring or haze that might occur if you don't have the machine turned high enough or you don't work the product long enough.
The SSR's should be worked until they virtually disappear and the shine is popping through at a speed of at least 5 on a PC and about 1200rpms on a rotary.
 
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