My plan of attack, is it correct?

O

Orbit

Guest
Hello!, I'm a longtime car enthousiast who finaly took the descision to start detailing his car instead of just cleaning it. Btw, I'm from Belgium so try to ignore my spelling :oops:

Anyway, i kind off fell in love with the PB productline, I guess I apreciate the straight approach with no effort wasted to fancy packaging and marketing. And of course, I only found positive reactions of users.

So, in a recordtime I puchased the following products:

Poorboys World - Spray and Wipe
Poorboys World - Poly - Elastic Clay - 200gr
Poorboys World - Black Hole - 473ml
Poorboys World - EX Sealant with Carnauba
Poorboys World - Professional Polish
Poorboys World - SSR1 Light Abrasive Swirl Remover
Poorboys World - SSR2 Medium Abrasive Swirl Remover
Poorboys World - Trim Restorer - 473ml
Poorboys World - Bio-Degradable All Purpose Cleaner & Degreaser

+ DA machine polisher, several LC pads and loads of MF towels.

In the near future I'm planning to get the GF's car back its showroomlook it has lost over the past 3 years. It's a black Toyota Yaris 3d in metalic black. Its in fairly good shape so i'm not planning on using the SSR's on it. Those are for my brothers car who is in much worse shape.

This is what i had in mind:

- Aplying APC in the wheelwells, wheels and the filthiest parts of the body and letting it loosen the dirt.
- Rinsing with the pressure hose.
- Washing with NXT (still have a couple of liters lying around) with the 2 bucket method and MF washmitts.
- skip the drying because ...
- claying with PB clay and spray and wipe diluted 1:1 with water. Clean of (and dry) with MF towel.
- Polishing with the PP with a light green pad to have 'some' cut. Work it slow and give it time so the chemical part of the polish can work. Remove polish with MF towels.
- Aplying BH with a black pad, again, slow speed and removing it with MF towel.
- Aplying EX with carnauba with a red pad, slow speed, giving it the time to haze and the buff it off with the softest MF I can find.

So far I am pretty confident i'm on the right track but there still are some questions I cannot seem to find a definitive answer.

First of all, the needed cure times for the different products.

PP: Although it is a polish I understood that the chemical components might need some time to be effective, so it is advisable to keep it on the body for some time. Is this true? and for how long should it rest on the car?
BH: Some say it is a simple apply and buff out product, some say you shoud let it haze. So what is it now?
EX /w Carnauba: Its a sealant WITH carnauba so it should stay a while on the car, about 1 hour should do it?

And secondly, is it necessary to re-wash the car betwean certain steps?

I heard it is necessary to re-wash the car after the claying AND after the polishing. The first time to remove any loosened contaminants, and the second time to perfectly remove any residue to optimise the effect of the fillers and oils of the glaze. And if this is true, is a thourough rinse with a pressure hose enough or are we talking about the real thing, so washing it by hand with the 2 bucket method?

Thirdly, what is the best way to maximize the effect of the EX- carnauba. I read about aplying a second coat after 24 hours, others talk about aplying a second coat immediately after buffing it out. And if i would want to top it of with a high carnauba content pastewax, when would be the best time to do it?

And finaly, is there a way to avoid the use of tape on the trims? I find taping of a car verry anoying and most of all, hardly a guaranty for perfect trims.

I hoped to avoid the use of tape by cleaning (APC) and applying Trims restorer after the PP step but before the BH / EX step so the trims would be protected from any effect BH or EX could have on them. Is this just wishfull thinking or is it possible?

Wow, my posting got a bit longer then i had hoped, anyway, thaks for reading this and I hope someone can help me fill in the blanks. I just hope the long slab of text isn't holding people back from reading it, I just wanted to be precise :oops: :oops: :D

Thanks!
 

Bunky

Advanced Helper
I will make some comments.

For PP, you just use work it and then remove it. There is no need to let it soak to improve the cleaning ability.

I have started doing a wipedown with 50/50 water / isopropyl alcohol after polishing to remove any residue polish so the paint is as squeaky clean as possible.

As for eliminating taping, I have applied a trim protectant like PB TR prior to polishing and waxing but I do not buff it off -- just wipe on. This does help cleanup of trim after you are finished if you happen to get polish or other products on the trim. Once complete, you just wipe down all the trim.
 

Poorboy

Founder
Staff member
Orbit said:
This is what i had in mind:

- Aplying APC in the wheelwells, wheels and the filthiest parts of the body and letting it loosen the dirt.

this is fine, but do not let it dry on the car

- Rinsing with the pressure hose.

ok

- Washing with NXT (still have a couple of liters lying around) with the 2 bucket method and MF washmitts.
- skip the drying because ...
- claying with PB clay and spray and wipe diluted 1:1 with water. Clean of (and dry) with MF towel.
- Polishing with the PP with a light green pad to have 'some' cut. Work it slow and give it time so the chemical part of the polish can work. Remove polish with MF towels.

I would use a white polishing pad ... as Bunky said ..work it at high speed until it disappears and then buff off

- Aplying BH with a black pad, again, slow speed and removing it with MF towel.
- Aplying EX with carnauba with a red pad, slow speed, giving it the time to haze and the buff it off with the softest MF I can find.

So far I am pretty confident i'm on the right track but there still are some questions I cannot seem to find a definitive answer.

First of all, the needed cure times for the different products.

PP: Although it is a polish I understood that the chemical components might need some time to be effective, so it is advisable to keep it on the body for some time. Is this true? and for how long should it rest on the car?

no cure time as stated before

BH: Some say it is a simple apply and buff out product, some say you shoud let it haze. So what is it now?

either way will work

EX /w Carnauba: Its a sealant WITH carnauba so it should stay a while on the car, about 1 hour should do it?

yes, an hour or so is good

And secondly, is it necessary to re-wash the car betwean certain steps?

no, you can use your Spray and Wipe for any in between clean ups needed


Thirdly, what is the best way to maximize the effect of the EX- carnauba. I read about applying a second coat after 24 hours, others talk about applying a second coat immediately after buffing it out. And if i would want to top it of with a high carnauba content paste wax, when would be the best time to do it?

apply two coats of EX initially, then wait 24-72 (keeping car dry) before applying paste wax

And finally, is there a way to avoid the use of tape on the trims? I find taping of a car very annoying and most of all, hardly a guaranty for perfect trims.

again as Bunky stated, apply Trim Restorer first and if you make any polishing mistakes, it will wipe right off



Wow, my posting got a bit longer then i had hoped, anyway, thanks for reading this and I hope someone can help me fill in the blanks. I just hope the long slab of text isn't holding people back from reading it, I just wanted to be precise :oops: :oops: :D

Thanks!


....hope this helps and welcome to our forum
:smt006
 
O

Orbit

Guest
Yes !!! today I found some time to deploy the first stage of the attack plan with surprising results.

After trying the PP with a white pad I wasn't sattisfied by the result so I took out the SSR's and ended up using SSR2 with a orange pad (the most aggressive combo I have) wich removed an amazing amount of swirls and other marks, even deeper scratches dissapeared !

But now i have a new question, how should I continue after the SSR2/orange combo? I am sattisfied with the amount of swirls removed and now i'm just looking to get the best gloss possible. Should I do a pass with SSR1/white or can I go directly with the PP on a white or light green pad for that ultimate shine?
 

Poorboy

Founder
Staff member
Orbit said:
Yes !!! today I found some time to deploy the first stage of the attack plan with surprising results.

After trying the PP with a white pad I wasn't sattisfied by the result so I took out the SSR's and ended up using SSR2 with a orange pad (the most aggressive combo I have) wich removed an amazing amount of swirls and other marks, even deeper scratches dissapeared !

But now i have a new question, how should I continue after the SSR2/orange combo? I am sattisfied with the amount of swirls removed and now i'm just looking to get the best gloss possible. Should I do a pass with SSR1/white or can I go directly with the PP on a white or light green pad for that ultimate shine?

you should follow with SSR1 or PP with a finishing pad :wink:
 
O

Orbit

Guest
So SSR1 OR PP would do the trick?

Which one has your preference? Since I have both sitting on the shelf ...

Does it pay to do both? First the SSR1, followed by the PP? Or is that simply overdoing it?
 

Poorboy

Founder
Staff member
Orbit said:
So SSR1 OR PP would do the trick?

Which one has your preference? Since I have both sitting on the shelf ...

Does it pay to do both? First the SSR1, followed by the PP? Or is that simply overdoing it?

on dark colors I would use SSR1 with a finishing pad

PP on light colors
 
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