I was just thinking....

[rossmeister]

Greetings all! I am a nut for keeping things simple and affordable. (Guess you could say I'm cheap)

Originally I planned on applying EX-P, topping with LNB, topping with WD, and then using QW+ in between detail sessions. How about I just use multiple coats of EX-P (properly cured), eliminate WD and use QW+ as a booster?

EX-P + LNB + WD + QW+ = 4 products = higher cost.
EX-P + QW+ = 2 products = more money to spend on other PB's products. LOL. Sound like a good plan to you?


BTW, my car is a White Honda, and I will be using PP before anything else.
:smt115

 

[Gus-Gus]

Ross i would avoid using exp and lnb together first of all because you cannot layer a sealant and a wax as the wax wont have anything to bond to ( or the other way around i can never remember which is which).. secondly LNB has "some" cleaning ability and will just remove the exp from the paint anyhow.. so basically you are wasting time and product


If i were you.. i would go PP then WD (although you really dont need WD if you are getting all of the defects out of the paint while polishing) and then use the exp(1 or 2 coats)

 

[rossmeister]

Ross i would avoid using exp and lnb together first of all because you cannot layer a sealant and a wax as the wax wont have anything to bond to ( or the other way around i can never remember which is which).. secondly LNB has "some" cleaning ability and will just remove the exp from the paint anyhow.. so basically you are wasting time and product


If i were you.. i would go PP then WD (although you really dont need WD if you are getting all of the defects out of the paint while polishing) and then use the exp(1 or 2 coats)

Wow, never thought I'd get such a fast response! Thanks for the useful tip, Gus-Gus. I was thinking that LNB might be doing that to the EX-P, which prompted me to switch my mental gears. I have (my car, not me) light swirls and scratches which I think PP will remove or at least cover up. If not, that's okay. I can live with a few light imperfections. But this thinking is certain to change over time. Heck, someday I'll probably have nightmares thinking about that scratch I missed. LMAO!

 

[sscully]

I have found that for layering you need to use the paste, and with a white car I would say Natty's Red layered with White Diamond.

3 layers of WD - Natty's Red is about the end of any change. I did 4 layers on my Dark stone truck with BH - Natty's Blue paste, and that last coat was for not ( could not tell any thing - just like Steve said ).

I just got done with 3 layers of WD - Natty's Red on the Mrs Electric Blue G6, and it turned out with a real nice pop to the finish.

Full pictures of it are in the zip file in Andy's thread on [ Bit of help required. Picture requests. ] if you want to see the layering look, but it is on electric blue.
Right Click save as :
http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/2007PontiacG6.zip

I don't have any good pictures of the BH - Natty's blue finish the G6 had on it before from ~ FEB this year.

Same as what I did for a test on the front Clip of my Dark Stone F150 ( removed the blue test to do the red test ) and it has a great pop to it, but looks ~ 2mm thick.

Even if you get out every defect, layering the WD with Natty's red will add a bit more pop to the finish.

 

[rossmeister]

Thanks, sscully. So basically NR as the base, with multiple layers of WD. Got it. And what can be used as a 'booster'? QD+, QW+, or S&G? I remember seeing a thread regarding these, but can't find them now. Poorboy's terminology is a bit different than other manufacturers.

 

[Gus-Gus]

Thanks, sscully. So basically NR as the base, with multiple layers of WD. Got it. And what can be used as a 'booster'? QD+, QW+, or S&G? I remember seeing a thread regarding these, but can't find them now. Poorboy's terminology is a bit different than other manufacturers.

I think what scully is saying is multiple applications of WD first then Nattys Red on the top. you need to always top a glaze as they have no real protective value of their own.. Also commenting on what you said earlier "light swirls and scratches which I think PP will remove or at least cover up." Polishes are for removing defects and glazes such as white diamond are for covering up. In my opinion i would use Spray and Gloss as a booster for when you dont feel like adding another coat of wax.

 

[sscully]

For 99.5% of the QD "boost" I use SnG ( Spray and Gloss ).
It is a quick QD on a clean paint ( SnW 1st if needed ) and adds a nice pop to the paint.

I also use QW+ ( have used about 10 oz out of my qt bottle ) from time to time.
Depends if my scheduled allows me to take the time to do this. I do like using it, it is nice to get that manual application; wax on, wax off Zen feeling.

I did not have much luck with QD+, I am too stupid to use it ( others use it just fine, so it is a replaced end user - tested OK scenario ).
I am thinking I cannot get the application amount right, as I get streaks from it. Other members here do not have this issue, so it is a heavy hand application or something on my part.

I have even had a case or two of a fresh coat of Natty's red to the layers of BH - Natty's Blue paste ( dark color paint) after a wash for some additional pop over SnG.
Some will call this a waste of product ( don't know what condition the foundation product is in, so it could be like building a skyscraper on quick sand ).
Works fine for me, but I am one to constantly be messing around with the products on the paint.
It was not 90 days from the BH-Natty's Blue layer to WD-Natty's red layer tests and I did another product test in between them.

All 3 ( QD+, QW+ and SnG ) will add pop to the finish.

If you are not going to get all the defects out of the paint the 1st ( or the 10th ) round of detailing, use the ProPolish, then WD then EX-P and then start on the layering of WD-Natty's red. Ex I use a red pad and a DA speed of 1.5 to 2 for applying it ( same for NLB )

Wax over Sealant is OK, Sealant over wax is not suggested.

So you could go :

ProPolish
White Diamond ( DA application )
EX-P ( 2 thin coats )
- Wait 12 to 24 hours
Natty's Red ( 2 thin coats )
- Wait 12 to 24 hours
White Diamond ( thin coat by hand )
Natty's Red ( 2 thin coats )

and if you are ambitious
- Wait 12 to 24 hours
White Diamond ( thin coat by hand )
Natty's Red ( 2 thin coats )

The WD application between ProPolish and the EX-P is worked in more like a polish than a wax. Red pad DA speed 3.5 to 4.
Follow on layers of WD use a red hand pad.

My layering tests I did not use EX, went from PP to BH / WD and then to Natty's Paste, and start in hand layering.

 

[Poorboy]

wow scully i wish i had your energy again ... yes you need a light hand with the QD+ or a sample size bottle with an atomizer

here's my take from you original post ...

Wash=> clay=> PP => WD => EX-P x2 => week later wash and add LNB or Natty's (white) I like the Original on white cars

getting through the EX-P x 2 in one day will be more than enough for someone not used to detailing. You can wait a couple days, but I figure you are probably going to do it over the weekend

 

[sscully]

wow scully i wish i had your energy again ... yes you need a light hand with the QD+ or a sample size bottle with an atomizer ...<snip>...

45 and no kids, so I have all sorts of energy :smt038
- Also I work for a company that is not my own, that is a huge energy drain right there.

I gave away the QD+, I am just too stupid to have it on the shelf. I don't have an issue with SnW on windows is what gets me.:smt017

 

[Poorboy]

45 and no kids, so I have all sorts of energy :smt038
- Also I work for a company that is not my own, that is a huge energy drain right there.

I gave away the QD+, I am just too stupid to have it on the shelf. I don't have an issue with SnW on windows is what gets me.:smt017

yes, kids and owning a business will more or less .. zap almost everything you got until the kids grow up move out and support themselves ... what the hell am i saying .. I'll be dead by then :shock:

 

[rossmeister]

yes, kids and owning a business will more or less .. zap almost everything you got until the kids grow up move out and support themselves ... what the hell am i saying .. I'll be dead by then :shock:

LOL! No kids here, either. Do two cats and five fish(es) count?

 

[sscully]

LOL! No kids here, either. Do two cats and five fish(es) count?

The answer to that question, is the inverse to the answer of; " Can you lock them up in a cage for 6 hours, and not get in trouble with DCFS ?":smt003

Question : How do you keep the count at 2 & 5, or was it 2 & 7 before ???:smt103

 

[rossmeister]

wow scully i wish i had your energy again ... yes you need a light hand with the QD+ or a sample size bottle with an atomizer

here's my take from you original post ...

Wash=> clay=> PP => WD => EX-P x2 => week later wash and add LNB or Natty's (white) I like the Original on white cars

getting through the EX-P x 2 in one day will be more than enough for someone not used to detailing. You can wait a couple days, but I figure you are probably going to do it over the weekend

Thanks, Steve. From what I've gathered on this forum, cure time for EX-P is 12-24 hours. Well, it's full-on summer now with plenty of heat and humidity here in TX. Should there be a longer cure time when it's humid?

 

[Poorboy]

there is no definitive answer ... for removal in hot and humid weather, start testing a spot after 20 minutes or so and see how easy it comes off ... as far as curing time... I would not rush it.