Hot water soak of bottle prior to shake and application | aka hairbrain idea 1 of 432

[sscully]

Did a few search terms ( warm, hot water ) and could not find if this was asked or done yet.

I don't want to jump into a test without asking, and ruin a bottle of product, so..

Read the prep directions on Collinite 845, which said to place the bottle in hot water prior to shaking. That product gets free flowing ( watery ) enough to be applied with a spray head.

The hair-brain idea I got today is 2 part.

1. Any ill effect to place the bottle in hot water prior to shaking to help with mixing the product ( talking about 65* garage when it is 40* outside ) ?

2. If hot water does not have any ill effects, I was going to test using a spray applicator to get a nice even coat over the pad prior to application.
- This is for products like Pro Polish, PwC-Blue, BH, EX, Liquid Natty Blue.

I don't know if there is a temperature cross over where the product is damaged if it gets too warm, nor if I can get any of the products liquid enough to use a sprayer for application to the the pad.
I have concerns about something like Pro Polish if I could get it free flowing enough to use a sprayer if all the components in it would be suspended to make spray on the pad a good idea ( i.e. part of the product is not suspended and is left in the bottom of the bottle ).

 

[heck]

I can not answer your questions, but I use a Microwave to heat my products : ), it's much easier and faster.

 

[wallywax]

That sounds like a lot of extra work. I would just apply the product normally.

 

[sscully]

I can not answer your questions, but I use a Microwave to heat my products : ), it's much easier and faster.

Is there any product you don't do this with ? ( i.e. anything with carnauba or PP or PP2 )

Thanks for the info, seems idea # 1 of 432 was not that hair brained after all...:mrgreen:

 

[sscully]

That sounds like a lot of extra work. I would just apply the product normally.

Put the bottle of PP in an empty Clorox wipes container with hot water while you clay.
Put the bottle of PwC in the same container with fresh hot water while you polish.
Put the bottle of BH in the same container with fresh hot water while you PwC.
etc.

This is a lot of work ? sounds like setting the bottle in a different place while preforming the previous step.

 

[Poorboy]

well i'm not sure that using warm water will really help with any of our products ... all of our products are easy to apply out of the bottle ... the only one it might be interesting to see is the PwC .. as the Insulator wax instructions you mention is due to their wax coagulating and the warm water will help thin it out

 

[sscully]

I warned everyone, hair-brained idea #1 of 432. Truth in advertising.:-D

I'll try to get some time on SUN to give it a go with PwC-Blue, BH and EX. Don't want to PP again, just finished it yesterday.
As long as I am not going to ruin anything with the products by making them too warm. I do not know what to expect to happen with any of them. I was thinking at best I could use the sprayer to apply them to the pad, at worse no difference. Thinking maybe the outcome would be just to make them slightly easier to shake up.

I saw the pre warming of the insulator wax, it looked like something one would find in a bee hive. As advertised, hair brained idea #1.... only 431 more to go !

 

[sscully]

I tried 2 today.

1. PwC - blue.
took water that had been boiled in an electric tea kettle ( for something else ) and used the water to part fill the empty Clorox wipe container, and let sit for ~ 10 min. Water was ~ 180* to 190* when I got to the garage to start testing.



After ~ 10 min pull it out of the container, dried it off, and this is what it looked like ( had not shaken it yet ).


Went to town shaking the bottle. Mixed very quick as compared with a non heated bottle.

attached the same type spray head to the bottle ( as I used on the 845 ) and used the car trunk to show the spray pattern ( seems I had it cranked too low, the center had a dollop from it ). This is just holding the bottle ~ 2' from the paint and pulling the trigger.



Seems to have the same flow as the 845 after heating, so stands to reason this would be great for priming the pad.

I let the bottle sit for 20 min on the Corian work top in the 55* garage, and tested again. Bit harder trigger pull, but still worked. I figure had the empty container with the hot water been on a magazine or towel to aid in insulating it from the cold work top, I could have returned the bottle to the hot water each time, and made it all the way around my F150 without the hard trigger pull ( taking into account the garage would need to be a heated to at least 65* to make application and dry times workable ).

2. PwS.
I tried fresh batch of hot water ( bit off the boil, ~ same 190* water ).
The PwS was a bit easier to mix, but no where near able to be used with a spray head.

So I would say the PwC-Blue and Liquid Natty's Blue both could be heated and used a spray head on them for application to the pad evenly, if one wanted to.

depends on what I am doing if I would do it again, for sure in the summer when I am going after it with both the car & the truck I will be heating up some water to set the bottle in, so I can just hit the pad with a spray or 2 between work areas.

As for PP, PwS, BH, and EX, it would make them slightly easier to mix in colder weather. Wish I had tried this test 2 weekends ago, prior to doing the car & truck.

Take it for what it is worth.
Product dependent if the shaking is easier after heating ( I would say PwS not really even at 55*), and if you care to just spray the product on the pad for an even coating vs. doing the dot, kiss and spread with the pad prior to pulling the trigger.

 

[wallywax]

Interesting. I might give this a shot.

 

[sscully]

Might want to put clear packing tape ( or similar ) over the label before you submerse the bottle.
My PwC-Blue is older and the label was fine.
My PwS I just got ( ~ past 2 months ) and the hot water took the label right off.

 

[Poorboy]

Might want to put clear packing tape ( or similar ) over the label before you submerse the bottle.
My PwC-Blue is older and the label was fine.
My PwS I just got ( ~ past 2 months ) and the hot water took the label right off.

my god ..how old is that PwC ? I can't remember the last time we used those big shake well stickers :smt103

 

[sscully]

my god ..how old is that PwC ? I can't remember the last time we used those big shake well stickers :smt103

At least my SSR1 is not pink :razz:

I would have to say after FEB-2006, that is when I got my '06 Dark Stone F150.
The '01 SCrew was Silver, no reason to put it on that and the only dark paint I had prior ( from MAY-01 ) was on my ZX-9R ( and 32oz would be overkill for the Tupperware on that ). Something in the back of my feeble mind is telling me I got it shortly after introduction ???

Up until Q3CY07, I was only using it on the F150, after that the additional vehicle is a G6 ( might have used it a bit on the ZX-9R ?? ).
32oz of that stuff goes a long way, it is about 30% gone now.
Then again I am finding out the application science of what I am doing ( now that my cabinet has been cleaned out of others and room for all sorts of PB products ), and the remaining 70% might go quicker.

 

[Poorboy]

yeah i'd have to say it was before I was in this warehouse ... and that was Nov 07 ...

 

[sscully]

Side note, 3 days on since trying this, and my PwC Blue has not gone back to separated state yet.

I have never paid attention to how long this takes before, but right at 72 hrs @ ~ 55* and the product is not back to the blue liquid on the top yet.

Strange....

 

[Poorboy]

that's strange..lol