Well, I was hoping one of the "pros" would chime in, after I offered my amazingly helpful help, :roll: but, I guess I'll chime in myself.
First, I wouldn't recommend removing the product with the buffer. If you've applied the product "properly' you shouldn't need much effort to remove it. If you find it hard to remove, it may be that you used too much product. (If you can't see your paint through the residue, you've got too much product applied!
)
Generally speaking, you will get better results from dedicated products/multiple steps than an "All-In-One" product. This isn't to say that you can't get good results from the AIO, rather, that you'd be able to concentrate more on what needs more attention and address specific concerns with multi-step systems.
The buffer you likely have isn't the same as the PC buffer often mentioned on these sites. Two big concerns with them are that they usually come with "less than the highest quality" bonnets, and secondly, they are usually fixed at 1 speed - ie. on or off.
With the bonnets, you might look for some microfibre bonnets for your buffer. They are less likely to induce marring. The "cotton" bonnets usually supplied are fairly threadbare, and tend to get "balls" forming if used with sticky polishes or waxes, or if the products are applied too thick. This "balling" can also induce marring. (Also, this can occur if you used the bonnets to remove the product, which could mar a section fairly quickly.) The "cotton" is often mixed with polyester thread as well, which may also cause marring.
As to the speed, you likely wouldn't get major blemishes fixed with it, but it does allow an even coat to be applied, as well as allowing you to work in a product longer than you likely would by hand.
(I wouldn't recommend using the "wool" bonnet, as 1-it isn't real wool, it's synthetic and could swirl up the finish, and 2-it is meant to "bring up the shine by doing a deep buff. This may have been needed on older finishes with older products, but for the most part, today's products don't require excessive buffing to get a nice shine.)
Using this type of buffer, look for products that can be used by hand. Products that say "machine use only" usually refer to rotary buffers, which yours certainly isn't. You won't be able to get the speed/heat needed to make the products work.
Is your car in nice shape, or is it in need of work? (Oxidized/scratched/swirled/etc.) You would need different products depending on the condition.
If you have it in nice shape, I'd recommend SSR1 and EX-P (since it's metallic.). SSR2 or 2.5, depending on how bad the condition is.
Of course, there's the BnB for tyres, NL for interior (or Leather Stuff for leather), SSS for washing, S+W for just about everything, blah blah blah.
Well, this is probably too long now, so I'll stop.
Let me know if you require further (non-pro) assistance!
