Work order for these products?

[mcMike]

Hello,

And Greetings from Finland. I just purchased set of PB's products and would like to clarify correct work order.

Natty's Paste Wax (BLUE)
Spray and Gloss
EX-P SEALANT
Professional Polish (new formula)
Super Swirl Removers Type SSR1
Bold N Bright
Deluxe Mega Towel
Natural Look
some 3rd party MF pads & towels
Wheel Sealant
MF Waffle Weave towel (had before and I just love how easy you can dry the vehicle with this !)

Black Audi TT (-99) in relatively good condition. Mild swirlmarks, few scratches and couple of problematic areas (some clearcoat overspray after respray).

I would first use SSR1. Maybe whole car or at least the problematic areas (hand or maybe with orbital if I can access one). Then Pro Polish and afterwards couple coats of EX-P and then finally Natty. Is that correct procedure?
How long should I wait between each layer of EX-P? How long between EX-P -> Natty? How long have EX-P on before buffing out? How long for Natty?

How do I maintain the finish? Reapply Natty after few weeks or should I also reapply EX-P?

Can I use any of those products for polishing windows and headlights? If yes what would be best procedure? Can/should I use EX-P over wheels also after wheel sealant? Can I polish wheels with Pro Polish?

How about trims and other small exterior areas (i.e. non clearcoat)? And what should I use in the plastic areas covering wheels (Natural Look?) Is those arches or what's the correct term? (please forgive my lack of english).

Any other tips? Should I use SnG QD for moisturing the MF pad for any of the products? Never tried any of PB's products so all tips and help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks and sorry about loads of questions.

 

[BigLeegr]

You may not need to use Pro Polish after SSR1. SSR1 usually finishes off well enough for me. Applying both would just be an added "insurance" step if I wanted to make sure any previous wax was gone. Otherwise I'd use only 1 or the other.
The SSR1/EX-P/Natty procedure is correct.
Some people apply extra layers of EX-P right after they've wiped off the first one. Usually, it's recommended to wait a day before applying the next coat. (Let the sealant "outgas".) So, with this in mind, you'd apply the EX-P after polishing, then apply the second coat the next day, then apply the Natty on the third day. (Washing or S+W'ing before each coat, of course.)
You can re-apply Natty every few weeks, but if you wanted to re-apply the EX-P, you'd need to polish the previous layer(s) of Natty off first.
ProPolish would be the product to polish the windows/headlights with. Procedure would be about the same as with paint. Rub in, wipe off.
IMO the Wheel Sealant should suffice by itself. I've gotten many months out of an application.
Wheels could be polished with Pro Polish.
Trim Restorer would likely be best suited for the trim. Otherwise you'd likely ba able to use either the Bold N Bright or the Natural Look. (BnB may last longer, as it's made for exterior applications.)
The wheel wells can be sprayed with Natural Look or BnB. Some people spray paint instead, for a longer lasting look.
Spray and Gloss can be used with the Natty wax, but that's about it. You shouldn't introduce any extra moisture to a sealant, as it may affect the durability badly.
Hope this helps!

 

[mcMike]

Thanks alot!

One more thing. What is the correct amount of EX-P and Natty?
I'm going to use some MF applicator pad by hand. How much I put on the pad and how large area it should cover.

 

[BigLeegr]

I usually start with about a half to 3/4 inch wide blob, then add more (about 1/3" wide blob) as needed (when no more seems to be getting applied to the car.). This is of course with regards to liquids. I use less than an ounce to do a mid-sized car.
For the Natty, I just wipe around the jar 3 or 4 times, then apply as far as I can. So little is used that I can't really say how far down the jar would be after 1 car.

 

[mcMike]

Thanks again.

It would be so nice if people in that side of the globe would also finally move to standard measurement unints based on physics instead of King's body-parts (just kidding).

 

[BigLeegr]

Sorry. Canada uses metric too, but I'm used to answering on American boards. (And here I was thinking I was doing well by avoiding the US currency based (nickel-sized amount) analogy! )