Natural look, Trim restorer, Leather stuff, bugsquash

[Grouse]

Natural look.

First I applied it to my trim, rubber seals, ect ect. I liked how easily it went on. But I have a few questions about it. I used it on my dash after I wiped my dash down with a damp MF towel. No significant dirt came up. Once the dash was dry I applied the natural look via a 2nd mf towel. I found it difficult to keep the tone of the dash the same. I seemed to get a lot of streaking, both letting it sit, and wiping it off with a clean mf towel. I do not have this streaking anywhere else, so I am at a loss as to why I have it on my dash. It was 68 degrees outside, but I was in full sun with a black dash.

Trim restorer

I applied this to several seals, plastic bits, and rubberized bits on my car. While it makes the pieces look fantastic, I seem to be getting a fair amount of dust accumulation on those pieces now. My method for applying it was, a tiny dab on a MF towel (costco) wipe on clean trim, plastic, rubber, seals ect ect. After driving a bit I came back to my car to find a significant amount of dust had settled on those areas. My question is after applying TR should I have wiped it off with a clean MF towel?

Leather stuff.
I applied it with a applicator pad to my seats, worked it in, let it sit while I applied it to my other seat and then buffed off with clean MF towel. Yet the shine is not quite to my liking. Is there a matte finish version in the works? Or can I achieve that look by not letting it sit on the leather for those few moments. Do you have a separate specific leather cleaner? I’m used to the leather master system and have always used their Strong cleaner on the seats before applying the dressing. My second issue is how plasticized the seats feel after applying it. Maybe I used to much per seat. Less than a nickel sized dollop. I prefer a much suppler feel to my seats. Well let me correct that I prefer the supple feel in my audi, as that is how they were new. In my tahoe, they are more like what LS produced today. Is there a way to achieve that feel (yeah hard to convey tactile senses via the internet) with a PB product. I’m thinking of giving natural look a run at this as I like how it felt on the trim pieces. Yet even it is a bit to plasticized I think.

Bugsquash
I used bugsquash this last weekend and really liked it. I applied it to a MF towel, held it to the spot for a min or two then wiped the tar, sap, bugs off. I am wondering if it is safe for clear coats when held against them for that extended period of time. 1-2 min. On the directions it says
“Use it 3:1 for a normal pre-wash or stronger for heavily soiled areas. Bug Squash is a product no car enthusiast should be without all year long! “
I don’t really plan on using it in that manner. I am only inquiring about using it full strength in spot treatments of the specific affected areas. Not spraying it on, or wiping but just holding it on via a treated MF towel, maybe steamed for very troublesome areas.

Spray and rinse.

Yes we remember th issue of this last weekend. I still have my sincerest doubts about the veracity of that. But moving on, can you give me a break down of that dilutions to use it at for

chrome,
clear coated,
aluminium,
Polished
Dual metal rims,
Powder coated
painted.
magniesium rims.


I know it will vary depending on the severty of the brake dust, and specific pads. I am seeking guidlines for the most part.

EX-P .

I am curious if i can use a NB topper on Ex-P without sacrificing durability of either of them. If there is any loss in durability what percentage of loss would you say there is. What is ex-p cure time, how long till i can layer NB on it?


Natty's blue

Boy i love this stuff sofar. My question is can it be layered like p21s? If it is layered how long between intervals, IE what is it's cure time. will i have durability issues?

Thanks Aaron

 

[Poorboy]

Natural look.

First I applied it to my trim, rubber seals, ect ect. I liked how easily it went on. But I have a few questions about it. I used it on my dash after I wiped my dash down with a damp MF towel. No significant dirt came up. Once the dash was dry I applied the natural look via a 2nd mf towel. I found it difficult to keep the tone of the dash the same. I seemed to get a lot of streaking, both letting it sit, and wiping it off with a clean mf towel. I do not have this streaking anywhere else, so I am at a loss as to why I have it on my dash. It was 68 degrees outside, but I was in full sun with a black dash.

Dash should be dry when applying and I would suggest using a sponge for even application and buff with a cotton towel

Trim restorer

I applied this to several seals, plastic bits, and rubberized bits on my car. While it makes the pieces look fantastic, I seem to be getting a fair amount of dust accumulation on those pieces now. My method for applying it was, a tiny dab on a MF towel (costco) wipe on clean trim, plastic, rubber, seals ect ect. After driving a bit I came back to my car to find a significant amount of dust had settled on those areas. My question is after applying TR should I have wiped it off with a clean MF towel?

apply with sponge or foam brush, allow to sit about an hour and buff with a cotton towel.

Leather stuff.
I applied it with a applicator pad to my seats, worked it in, let it sit while I applied it to my other seat and then buffed off with clean MF towel. Yet the shine is not quite to my liking. Is there a matte finish version in the works? Or can I achieve that look by not letting it sit on the leather for those few moments. Do you have a separate specific leather cleaner? I’m used to the leather master system and have always used their Strong cleaner on the seats before applying the dressing. My second issue is how plasticized the seats feel after applying it. Maybe I used to much per seat. Less than a nickel sized dollop. I prefer a much suppler feel to my seats. Well let me correct that I prefer the supple feel in my audi, as that is how they were new. In my tahoe, they are more like what LS produced today. Is there a way to achieve that feel (yeah hard to convey tactile senses via the internet) with a PB product. I’m thinking of giving natural look a run at this as I like how it felt on the trim pieces. Yet even it is a bit to plasticized I think.

Try hand application as directed on back of bottle...you can use APC diluted 15:1 for pre-cleaning if needed

Bugsquash
I used bugsquash this last weekend and really liked it. I applied it to a MF towel, held it to the spot for a min or two then wiped the tar, sap, bugs off. I am wondering if it is safe for clear coats when held against them for that extended period of time. 1-2 min. On the directions it says
“Use it 3:1 for a normal pre-wash or stronger for heavily soiled areas. Bug Squash is a product no car enthusiast should be without all year long! “
I don’t really plan on using it in that manner. I am only inquiring about using it full strength in spot treatments of the specific affected areas. Not spraying it on, or wiping but just holding it on via a treated MF towel, maybe steamed for very troublesome areas.

no it won't hurt the clearcoat at any strength

Spray and rinse.

Yes we remember th issue of this last weekend. I still have my sincerest doubts about the veracity of that. But moving on, can you give me a break down of that dilutions to use it at for

chrome, yes
clear coated, yes
aluminium, no, unless you are planning on polishing afterwards
Polished no, yes if coated
Dual metal rims, no
Powder coated yes
painted. yes
magniesium rims. no, spot test if you are going to polish afterwards


I know it will vary depending on the severty of the brake dust, and specific pads. I am seeking guidlines for the most part.

If your wheels are in good shape and sealed there is no real need for this product, soap and water should suffice. If you really have hard to clean wheels with lots of nook and crannies, then 50:50 will be good.

EX-P .

I am curious if i can use a NB topper on Ex-P without sacrificing durability of either of them. If there is any loss in durability what percentage of loss would you say there is. What is ex-p cure time, how long till i can layer NB on it?

yes, you can top it with no durability lost, but you should let it cure for 24-72 for best durability

Natty's blue

Boy i love this stuff sofar. My question is can it be layered like p21s? If it is layered how long between intervals, IE what is it's cure time. will i have durability issues?
Thanks Aaron

yes, no time is needed for curing, but best results have been seen a few days apart

 

[VroomVroom]

Just tossing my two pennies in since I use most of these products regularly.

Natural Look
This has become my go-to. I love it! On dash tops and other generally hard materials there is a little effort involved to achieve a consistent finish. In fairness, I've found this to be true with every other similar product I've used. Natural Look has replaced 303 Protectant as my go-to for these applications. I've found it to be easier to use and I prefer the scent. As Steve mentioned, I apply with a foam applicator and then buff with a MF towel.

Trim Restorer
I LOVE this stuff. Nothing I've found does a better job on weatherstripping, sunroof surrounds, etc. You're noticing a recurring theme....apply and then follow-up with a final buff.

Leather Stuff
A little definitely goes a long way. I try to apply an extremely light coat, not only for the matte finish, but also because of the strong scent.

Steve's wheel cleaning advice is awesome. Regardless of the quality or gentle characteristics of the product, I'm always very leery of wheel cleaners, and only use them on certain finishes, and even then only when necessary (i.e. heavy brake dust and grime). I've found car wash shampoo to be all I really need the vast majority of the time. Even more so when the wheel has been protected. If you haven't already tried it, I'm a big fan of Wheel Sealant.

EX-P & Natty's
I always try to leave at least 24 hours between coats, but on my own truck I have layered the products with only an hour in between. My wife's car has one coat of EX and three coats of NB. The EX and first coat of NB were applied on a Saturday and Sunday, respectively. Then there was a week separating each of the two additional coats of NB. It's been six weeks since the finish has received anything but a bath, and the beading qualities and shine are still remarkable. Worth noting that the car is outside 24/7.

Along with following up any application with a final buff, another recurring theme for me is choice of applicator. If I'm working anything in - i.e. a cleaner or polish, I'll use a terry or MF applicator. If I'm just applying a finish coat - i.e. leather conditioner, protectant, paint sealant/wax, I'll use foam. Steve may consider this a bad habit, but I'll also generally "prime" the applicator with S&W to help ensure a light, even coat.

 

[Grouse]

Just tossing my two pennies in since I use most of these products regularly.

Natural Look
This has become my go-to. I love it! On dash tops and other generally hard materials there is a little effort involved to achieve a consistent finish. In fairness, I've found this to be true with every other similar product I've used. Natural Look has replaced 303 Protectant as my go-to for these applications. I've found it to be easier to use and I prefer the scent. As Steve mentioned, I apply with a foam applicator and then buff with a MF towel.

The dash looked better several hours later, I took the time last night to go over the rest of the car interior. I re applied more to the dash in a thin layer via a foam applicator pad. It made the layers more even but not 100%. The tiger striping is minimal, I believe i am now down to just refining the technique of putting it on, with a good buff off.

Trim Restorer
I LOVE this stuff. Nothing I've found does a better job on weatherstripping, sunroof surrounds, etc. You're noticing a recurring theme....apply and then follow-up with a final buff.

I liked how it looked too, But after applying it i checked the rear bumper and exterior trims with a clean mf towel and they were caked in dust.

So during my process last night i went over the unfinshed areas with a second good buff. This morning after the same 30 mile drive no major dust accumulation. So I will be keeping my eye on it. I'm also planning to pick up some of the foam stain brushes at HD.

Leather Stuff
A little definitely goes a long way. I try to apply an extremely light coat, not only for the matte finish, but also because of the strong scent.

Well, My wife likes it. Me? Well i prefer a little more matte look. I finished off my remaining seats last night with a thin layer, much thinner than the front steats. They still had the sheen, so i buffed them off in sections and bingo i achieved the look i wanted. My only concern is the possible need for more frequent applications. As this is my rear seat where my little ones unleash chaos on my car I then applied a much thicker layer over the top.

Steve's wheel cleaning advice is awesome. Regardless of the quality or gentle characteristics of the product, I'm always very leery of wheel cleaners, and only use them on certain finishes, and even then only when necessary (i.e. heavy brake dust and grime). I've found car wash shampoo to be all I really need the vast majority of the time. Even more so when the wheel has been protected. If you haven't already tried it, I'm a big fan of Wheel Sealant.

yes I have found my foam gun sufficient for 95 % of the time. I'm simply asking for that rare case. I will have to get a chance and try it out soon.

EX-P & Natty's
I always try to leave at least 24 hours between coats, but on my own truck I have layered the products with only an hour in between. My wife's car has one coat of EX and three coats of NB. The EX and first coat of NB were applied on a Saturday and Sunday, respectively. Then there was a week separating each of the two additional coats of NB. It's been six weeks since the finish has received anything but a bath, and the beading qualities and shine are still remarkable. Worth noting that the car is outside 24/7.

I have a single coat on my brilliant silver, I love it. I applied two coats on a red audi and it dropped 3 shades darker compared to another washed and megs detail sprayed red audi of the same year. the owner was very happy, he will be back out on the 15th to remove the swirls.

Along with following up any application with a final buff, another recurring theme for me is choice of applicator. If I'm working anything in - i.e. a cleaner or polish, I'll use a terry or MF applicator. If I'm just applying a finish coat - i.e. leather conditioner, protectant, paint sealant/wax, I'll use foam. Steve may consider this a bad habit, but I'll also generally "prime" the applicator with S&W to help ensure a light, even coat.

Yes I am sorting out all the different applicaters i like for each product. Time will tell, thanks for the advice guys.