Advice for products to use with dual action polisher

[ireilly24]

Hi all, i am new here but i have been using nattys red paste wax for a while by hand application on my motorbike.

Ok i am going to attempt to do some paint resturation on my citroen c4 with a berrgundy metalic paint finish.

It has quite a lot of faits scratches and swirls so i have purchased a kit containing maguirs 80 compound and orange pads to get the cutting under way.

my problem is understanding what prodict to use after i have done the cutting? i will be using black finishing pads

I dont realy want to use to many product idealy only one more on top of the cutting compond.

I do want a deep gloss/wet look if possible

Can i use my nattys red paste wax with the polisher?

ALso is it possible to get something that will also not mark the rubber/plastic/chrome parts on the car?

i was looking at the liquid blue polish but i am not to sure if its the correct thing to use?

any help would be much appreciated

thanks ian

 

[sscully]

Depending on how bad the defects are, Pro Polish on the orange pad to do the major work, and then switch to the black pad with Pro Polish to finish up.

If you want to go all out, next is to use Pro Polish on a red pad to final polish the paint before going to Natty's Red.

Deep wet gloss finish would be Natty's Blue.

If you wanted to add to this, you could layer Black Hole and Natty's Blue.

The Order after polishing

Natty's blue ( 2 light coats )
- Wait 12 to 24 hours
Black Hole ( applied by hand with a red pad ) and Natty's blue ( 2 light coats )
- Wait 12 to 24 hours
Black Hole ( applied by hand with a red pad ) and Natty's blue ( 2 light coats )
- Wait 12 to 24 hours
Black Hole ( applied by hand with a red pad ) and Natty's blue ( 2 light coats )
- Wait 12 to 24 hours
Natty's Red ( 2 light coats )

This is the above layers excluding the Natty;s red ( just finished the last blue step at this point ) on the front fenders and hood only

This one you can tell the delta from the door to the front fender

I need to get the pictures up, but I just did a similar test with PB White Diamond and Natty's red.

The paint has a great bright shine to it, but it looks about 2mm deep ( no depth ).

 

[ireilly24]

Thank you for the reply.

I am still a bit confused, I ideally only wanted one product to use after the cutting compound that I already have to remove the marks.

Do I need to polish the surface after cutting it before I can ally a wax?

Is nattys red ok to use with a polisher?

Thanks

 

[sscully]

Pro Polish would get you from compound to the Natty's red.

Generally you would follow compound with a polish.
The micro marring left from the compound and the orange light cutting pad need to be removed.

If you want a single step after the compound step, Polish with Carnauba- Blue would be the product to use on a red pad.
First time you might need to use Polish with Carnauba- Blue on a black pad, depending on what the surface looks like after the compound step.

So while the surface might be free of the scratches and swirls you had before, new defects of marring were added in this step, due to how aggressive the compound and pad are.

The layering was just an option, to address the deep gloss/wet look that you are after. The layers will maximize the depth / wet look.

You can go from Pro Polish on a black pad direct to Natty's Red without an issue, it will look great.

There are a few members on the site here that use the back of the spoon to remove some Natty's red from the jar and spread it on a red pad.
Myself I do it by hand, on my F150, with the red hand pads, it goes very quick.

Natty's red is a pure wax, nothing in it to remove any defects ( this is why it can be layered ).

 

[BigLeegr]

#80 isn't really a cutting compound. It's a polish with fillers. It can be used as a both a medium and a final polish, but not with just an orange pad (IMHO). If you use #80 and an orange pad, you should follow it with a white polishing pad and #80 again. Then you could apply Natty's Red. Orange pads are not intended to be the sole pad used in detailing paint.

 

[ireilly24]

#80 isn't really a cutting compound. It's a polish with fillers. It can be used as a both a medium and a final polish, but not with just an orange pad (IMHO). If you use #80 and an orange pad, you should follow it with a white polishing pad and #80 again. Then you could apply Natty's Red. Orange pads are not intended to be the sole pad used in detailing paint.

oh ok thanks for the advice.

my kit consists of the machine, 2 orange pads and the maguiers 80 grade.

what do i need to get my complete kit?

may be a heavier cutting compound with the orange pad, then use the 80# with an orange pad to polish and then use a black finishing pad to use with my nattys red?

 

[BigLeegr]

Always try to accomplish your polishing goals with the least aggressive combos first. If it doesn't work, then try something more aggressive. As such, without knowing the severity of the marring, I don't know if you will need anything more aggressive than #80. I have been able to polish out some marring on a motorcycle gas tank with #82, which is more mild than #80. The minimum extra you will likely need to complete your kit would be a polishing pad. If you need a more aggressive polish, try SSR 2.5. Or you could go with either PP or PP2. If you go with the Pro Polishes, you can use them on plastics too (such as your windscreen or helmet).

That said, I would also recommend either PwC or PwS for maintenance polish/wax sessions when you don't have time for multiple steps but have a bit of marring to remove.

 

[ireilly24]

Well, I have some swirls, very light scratches and then some scratches that look almost a white colour because I think they have scratched the clear coat. What do you think I would need for this and what pads?

Many thanks

 

[BigLeegr]

If you can feel the scratches they are likely too deep to polish out. Otherwise SSR2.5 with an orange pad and your #80 with a polishing pad may do the trick. But, since you already have #80 and the orange and black pads, try that first and see what happens. This way you will see what you are up against and not be just guessing.

 

[ireilly24]

can i go straight from ssr2.5 to a non abrasive polish or will i have to follow wit my 80# first?

i would like to go for a ssr2.5 or 80# as my swirl/scratch remover then on to pp

thanks again

 

[sscully]

Pro Polish is a chemical polish ( unlike SSR which are mechanical abrasive ones ) that will be more or less aggressive depending on the pad.

If you need aggressive you can go Pro Polish on an Orange pad ( or yellow ) and as the next step use it on a white or black pad.

It is very versatile in use. I like it better than the SSR line myself ( have SSR2.5 / SSR 2 / SSR 1 ). I have PP2, but have not needed it yet.

Aside from the defects that seem to be through the clear coat, you could start with PP on a black pad, and see what you get.
You might find that it takes 75% of the defects out, and you only need to use a 2nd round of PP on the black pad, or maybe a run at the Orange pad, with a follow up on the black pad again.

 

[Poorboy]

Pro Polish is a chemical polish ( unlike SSR which are mechanical abrasive ones ) that will be more or less aggressive depending on the pad.

If you need aggressive you can go Pro Polish on an Orange pad ( or yellow ) and as the next step use it on a white or black pad.

It is very versatile in use. I like it better than the SSR line myself ( have SSR2.5 / SSR 2 / SSR 1 ). I have PP2, but have not needed it yet.

Aside from the defects that seem to be through the clear coat, you could start with PP on a black pad, and see what you get.
You might find that it takes 75% of the defects out, and you only need to use a 2nd round of PP on the black pad, or maybe a run at the Orange pad, with a follow up on the black pad again.

that's about the approach I use ... I do sometimes start with Master Cut or PP2 depending on what I'm going after, but for the most part, I prefer to use softer pads and then adjust the product to my expectations.

 

[Dannyboy]

Hi, Back spooning the Nattys on my red pad work just fine for me...be sure to remove any small lumps so it wont spatter....use very little..fantastic shine.