The right priducts for me

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bl831

Guest
After a friend highly recomended your products, I am going to order. My question is if I am looking at more than what I need. I have a 2003 Cobra in Sonic Blue...very dark metallic blue. I also want products to maintain the car once it looks like i want. The car has light spider-webbing swirlls. I think thats what they are called. The halo type minute scratches that show up when reflecting a super bright light source like the sun. I want to get rid of those, and get a really deep shine. I am also ordering a Porter Cable buffer. I have never owned one of these, and I would like suggestions for pads too. Here's the list..
SSR1
Professional Polish
EX-P
Nattys (I saw another post that said use both sealer and Nattys for the best of both worlds)
For maintaining...Spray and Wipe, Spray and Gloss, and QW+

I am looking at a Porter Cable kit at Detail City, it has the Orange, White, and Blue pads. I was also thinking of getting a Black pad, too. They are the 6.5" Lake Country pads. That kit also has the SSR1 and 2.5 along with Nattys. I don't think I will need the 2.5, but I expected it would be good to have around for any unexpected scratches.

Also, how long should I wait between coats of the various products, such as the SSR and Polish, or Polish and EXP, EXP and Nattys, etc? Thanks for any advice and help.

Brent
 
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littlemissGTO

Guest
bl831 said:
After a friend highly recomended your products, I am going to order. My question is if I am looking at more than what I need. I have a 2003 Cobra in Sonic Blue...very dark metallic blue. I also want products to maintain the car once it looks like i want. The car has light spider-webbing swirlls. I think thats what they are called. The halo type minute scratches that show up when reflecting a super bright light source like the sun. I want to get rid of those, and get a really deep shine. I am also ordering a Porter Cable buffer. I have never owned one of these, and I would like suggestions for pads too. Here's the list..
SSR1
Professional Polish
EX-P
Nattys (I saw another post that said use both sealer and Nattys for the best of both worlds)
For maintaining...Spray and Wipe, Spray and Gloss, and QW+

I am looking at a Porter Cable kit at Detail City, it has the Orange, White, and Blue pads. I was also thinking of getting a Black pad, too. They are the 6.5" Lake Country pads. That kit also has the SSR1 and 2.5 along with Nattys. I don't think I will need the 2.5, but I expected it would be good to have around for any unexpected scratches.

Also, how long should I wait between coats of the various products, such as the SSR and Polish, or Polish and EXP, EXP and Nattys, etc? Thanks for any advice and help.

Brent
Buying the kit is the way to go. If you're going to work on other people's cars I'd pick up a second orange and blue pad.
With proper washing you shouldn't need to use the SSR too often. Polish and wax oh man you could probably do that once a week. Since you have a dark color car I'd suggest getting some Natty's Red while you can and also some Natty's blue.
 

BigLeegr

Token Brute and Chief Bottle Washer
Staff member
If you really wanted to be minimal, you wouldn't need both PP and SSR1, but I would recommend having both, as PP is more versatile, but sometimes SSR1 gives quicker results.
As to the 2.5, you might be surprised at how deep some marring actually is. 2.5 is a good product to have if you are getting a PC. Also, you may end up helping some friends/family do their cars, and they my need more work than yours.
QW+ is a spray wax. If you live somewhere that has winters that don't allow you to wax during them, QW+ is a good product to have to boost protection after a wash. If you can wax all through the winter, you could probably do without it.
Polishes/swirl removers don't require "cure time" before going to the next step. You should wait a day between coats after you apply the sealant and whatever next step you decide on. Wax you can re-apply right after you wipe off the previous coat of wax, if you so wish.
 

Bunky

Advanced Helper
BigLeegr said:
If you really wanted to be minimal, you wouldn't need both PP and SSR1, but I would recommend having both, as PP is more versatile, but sometimes SSR1 gives quicker results..

Can someone explain why PP is more versatile? I saw a post here about the cut with PP depends on the pad.

Which is a better polish to be the finishing polish (lsp ready) and how to jewel the paint?
 

Bunky

Advanced Helper
I found part of the answer in another thread.

Pro Polish will give you a clearer and brighter finish to start with, and SSR1 will be a little more glossier ...the cleaing ability is about equal, but Pro Polish is a bit more versitile in that you can use different pads to achieve different results. SSR1 should only be used with either a polishing pad or finishing pad, never with a cutting pad.

Why would you want to use PP for correction vs the SSR line?
 

Poorboy

Founder
Staff member
Bunky said:
I found part of the answer in another thread.

Pro Polish will give you a clearer and brighter finish to start with, and SSR1 will be a little more glossier ...the cleaing ability is about equal, but Pro Polish is a bit more versitile in that you can use different pads to achieve different results. SSR1 should only be used with either a polishing pad or finishing pad, never with a cutting pad.

Why would you want to use PP for correction vs the SSR line?

It would depend on the cleaning vs cutting you want to achieve. The SSR's are made to cutting the paint with a abrasives where the PP will clean the paint and only cut if you use an aggressive pad. IT also depends on the the machine to be used. For corrections with a PC, I'd use the SSR's if you are using a rotary, then I'd go with PP.
 
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