SSR2 strong enough???

J

jmiller_81

Guest
I'm new to this whole detailing thing and recently purchased a pc 7336 as well as an edge 2000 pad system. I purchased the SSR1 and SSR2 swirl removers and just tryed them out on my 05 Black Honda Pilot. The hood has some etching (possibly acid rain). I had to do 3 passes on a 2x2 section with ssr2 using the orange light cutting pad on speed 6 to get rid of it. I need to do this to my entire hood and roof, should I step it up to SSR2.2 or SSR3?? Is there a big difference between SSR2 and SSR2.5?? Or should I step up the pad to the medium cutting pad (Green) with SSR2?? Also once the etching is gone should I polish with SSR1 and them go to an LSP?? Or do I need to get a pure polish after SSR1??
 

BigLeegr

Token Brute and Chief Bottle Washer
Staff member
There is a marked difference between SSR2 and 2.5, so you may want to go with 2.5 if this is an option. However, if you are able to get the job done with SSR2, as long as you've got the time, I'd say use it. Go the least aggressive route possibe!
(You really shouldn't need SSR3-It's POTENT!! Compared to SSR1&2, it's like liquid sandpaper! :eek: )

One thought about the passes made, are you fully working the polish before removing it? Some people tend to go a bit fast if they aren't used to the PC or polishes. If you are basically spreading the polish, going over the area once or twice after and then wiping off the residue, taking all of 1-2 min. per panel, you likely aren't working it well enough.
You don't need to worry about burning the paint with a PC 7336 as you would with a rotary buffer, so you can take some time and "experiment" with the speeds/time in relative safety.
Here's a very good post on using the PC: http://poorboysworld.net/board/viewtopic.php?t=65

As for going to a different pad, my understanding of the Edge 2K is that the orange is more aggressive than the light green pad, so you'd be going less aggressive by switching to the light green. With this in mind, I would caution you about using the yellow cutting pad, as it *typically* leaves a haze that will require follow-up buffing with less aggressive pads and polishes, so, in your case, since you are able to get the marring gone in 3 passes with 1 pad/product, you likely wouldn't save yourself any time going this route.

You can go from SSR1 to the LSP without going to PP between.

Hope this helps!
 
J

jmiller_81

Guest
I've worked the area for 5 minutes until the polish was broken down and transparent. I may try the green pad to see if I get faster results. It's weird because on the edge website the orange pad isn't even listed. But I can tell by feeling the pads that the green pad is stiffer than the orange one.
 

BigLeegr

Token Brute and Chief Bottle Washer
Staff member
Hmm... On their site, the green is listed as Light cut, 60 pores per inch and the yellow as med. cut and 50ppi and no orange (as you mentioned), but on a resellers site they have the green as med. with 50 ppi, the orange is light with 60ppi, and the yellow as the most aggressive, but no ppi listed. On another site, the yellow is listed as 40 ppi and the green is 50ppi and med. cutting, but no orange listed. Strange.

Well, if you've got the pads, I say go ahead and see what you can do. Sounds like you know how to work the polishes! :D
 
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