SSR questions...

1

1 high bald guy

Guest
Hey guys im new to the forums and have been browsing for awhile. I got SSR1 and im about to get SSR2 and SSR2.5. I have a ford with some minor swirls for lazy carwashes and 2 GM's that have some pretty bad swirling. My question is where should i start?

SSR1 with LC white pad if that doesnt work just to
SSR2 with LC white pad then orange if i need more bite? or
SSR2.5 with LC white pad then orange if i need more bite?

I think i also read not to prime and of the SSR pads? Sorry for all these questions, last thing i want to do is start and have no idea what to do after.
 

Rollingrock

Advanced Helper
1 high bald guy said:
Hey guys im new to the forums and have been browsing for awhile. I got SSR1 and im about to get SSR2 and SSR2.5. I have a ford with some minor swirls for lazy carwashes and 2 GM's that have some pretty bad swirling. My question is where should i start?

SSR1 with LC white pad if that doesnt work just to
SSR2 with LC white pad then orange if i need more bite? or
SSR2.5 with LC white pad then orange if i need more bite?

I think i also read not to prime and of the SSR pads? Sorry for all these questions, last thing i want to do is start and have no idea what to do after.

I'll take a shot at your ?'s


Always best to start with least aggresisive first. SSR1 with a White LC pad will be a great combo, if the marring is deeper you may need to do either 2 passes or use SSR2 or 2.5 with anotehr pad on the problem areas.

When working with the SSR's you should polish down the more aggressive cuts. For instance, use SSR1 after SSR2 or 2.5 to remove any dulling that can occur by using more cut on the pad.

As for loading the pads, I ALWASY load the pad with just a spray of QD.

The LC pads are very versatile, the White is your workshorse. Orange and Yellow should only be used if there is major correction work needed.

Which DA do you have? Flex? PC 7424? G100, G110?
 
1

1 high bald guy

Guest
whoa super fast response! ya I might just have to try it out on a few areas to see what results i get best. I didnt get a DA yet, I was still debating between the PC 7424 or the UDM. I havent really found any side by side comparisons.

edit - can i use the ssr2 with an orange pad? or should i just jump to ssr2.5 and a white pad?
 

BigLeegr

Token Brute and Chief Bottle Washer
Staff member
Maybe try the more aggressive polish/less aggressive pad before the less aggressive polish/more aggressive pad combo as the polish will break down and leave a better finish but a pad keeps the same "grit" regardless.
 

Rollingrock

Advanced Helper
1 high bald guy said:
whoa super fast response! ya I might just have to try it out on a few areas to see what results i get best. I didnt get a DA yet, I was still debating between the PC 7424 or the UDM. I havent really found any side by side comparisons.

edit - can i use the ssr2 with an orange pad? or should i just jump to ssr2.5 and a white pad?

I don't have any experience with the UDM, but I do have 4 PC7424's and 1 Flex, and I have to say the Flex is far superior.

I think using 2.5 on the white is ok, but I actually haven't used that combo. If you have to use 2.5 you probably need more cut than white so I would say, use your 2.5 with Orange then use 1 with White to polish out the Orange. Orange and Yellow can and do sometimes cause dulling of the finish. So you have to polish them out.

Have any photos of the problem areas? Its helps to see them under direct light or in the sun.

Just make sure you do something off this base line:

Wash
Clay
Polish (surface correct)
Glaze, optional step (what color is your car? )
Seal, optional step
LSP

If using all PB products a good plan could be: (this depends on the condition of the paint, again, sight unseen, hard to diagnose)

Wash
Clay
PB SSR2.5 Orange LC
PB SSR1 Green LC
PB PP White LC
Black Hole or White Diamond, Black LC
EX-P Blue LC
Nattys by hand

Looks like BigLeegr beat me to the repsonse, he does have much more experience with PB than me, so I would have to defer to him and use his suggestions...then use mine. :)
 
1

1 high bald guy

Guest
I dont have any pics but i will definately take some soon. I have a black ford, gunmetal grey gm, and black gm. ALL DARK COLORS! My steps are almost as you said. Do i need to hit it with PP after ssr1?

oh ya and thanks for the quick respones!!! looks like both of u guys do some great work!
 

Rollingrock

Advanced Helper
1 high bald guy said:
I dont have any pics but i will definately take some soon. I have a black ford, gunmetal grey gm, and black gm. ALL DARK COLORS! My steps are almost as you said. Do i need to hit it with PP after ssr1?

oh ya and thanks for the quick respones!!! looks like both of u guys do some great work!

SSR1 and PP yeild differnt looks...you'll have to decided which one you like better.

I do like PP. I have LOTS of experince with Ford Paint. I would hit your surface with some Black Hole after SSR1 or PP then top that with EX-P, wait an hour or so, then put either Nattys Blue or if you can find some Red on that and watch your jaw drop.

Hell if you were near me in TX I would help you out.

Fords can have good paint, even on black. Like this one
IMG_1645.jpg
 
1

1 high bald guy

Guest
ya ive been following your threads and man the turn arounds are amazing. I live out here in cali. Im not sure the exact paint code of the GM but its almost like a metallic dark grayish. Id love to try some black hole, I might get some if the budget permits because i still have to get a DA with pads and all the accessories.
 

Rollingrock

Advanced Helper
1 high bald guy said:
ya ive been following your threads and man the turn arounds are amazing. I live out here in cali. Im not sure the exact paint code of the GM but its almost like a metallic dark grayish. Id love to try some black hole, I might get some if the budget permits because i still have to get a DA with pads and all the accessories.

Be careful, this lifestyle may just grab you and not let go. LOL....I am OCD about it.

When you start to notice the turning heads to look at your ride, it's all worth it.

Ease into it as your budget permits, I have almost every product PB makes. My only advice, there are great products out there, you cannot know them all, pick one or tw lines and them well. My product of choice is Poorboys. I feel I know it pretty well but I am still learning from the "elders" here. Just when I think I got it figured out, someone posts some results with different product, pad combos that makes me scratch my head. PB products are some of the best around. Hard to beat the quality and care that has been put into them. They make even the most amateur detailer look like a seasoned pro.
 
1

1 high bald guy

Guest
ya i kinda bit the detailing bug. I have always been into keeping a clean car in and out but have to pay hundreds of dollars each time for a full detail, i said i might as well start doing it myself since work has slowed down for me.

Quick question on nattys, is it better to apply by hand or PC? it seems it would be a bit faster to apply it by pc or I could be wrong.
 

Rollingrock

Advanced Helper
1 high bald guy said:
ya i kinda bit the detailing bug. I have always been into keeping a clean car in and out but have to pay hundreds of dollars each time for a full detail, i said i might as well start doing it myself since work has slowed down for me.

Quick question on nattys, is it better to apply by hand or PC? it seems it would be a bit faster to apply it by pc or I could be wrong.

I use a foam applicator and remove with a quality MF towel.

Some actually use by hand, meaning rubbing product on their hands and applying with bare hands, but I don't like this method b.c you can put product on too think.

Thin is the key with Nattys, it doesn't take much product.
 

Bunky

Advanced Helper
There is a nice write up by Dave from Detailer's World on using a DA. It has an example using PB polishes to follow a method of increasing correction and more or less discussed here already but I like referencing the DA guide.

Try SSR1 with a finishing pad, if it does not work then
Try SSR2 with a finishing pad, if it does not work then
Try SSR2 with a polishing or light cut pad, it that does not work then
Try SSR2.5 with a polishing or light cut pad, then finish with SSR1 and finishing pad, if that does now work,
Try SSR2.5 with a cutting pad and then SSR2 with a polishing pad.
 
Top