Questions on application and cure times.

[csvtjohnga]

Going to be detailing a few cars in a month or so with PB products and would like a few tips and observations. 03 Ford Lightning in Sonic blue and a 04 Cobra in Screamin' Yellow. I'm familiar with Natty's Blue paste wax and will be using it as my topper. I purchased SSR1, Pro-Polish, Black Hole, and EX-P. I do not have access to a PC or any other type of machine for application/removal so all work will be done by hand.

SSR1-Pointless without a machine application? Not all of the body panels need it on either vehicle but would hand application work?
Black Hole- Cure time is 12-24hrs? Will be layering this and while it cures ill tend to other parts of the cars so time isn't a bother also vehicles will be garaged during full detail.
EX-P- Can be layered aswell and same cure time as Black Hole?

I understand to not let any of the products dry but to haze over and test by the finger swipe. Temps will be around 70-90 with 70+ humidty which I hope won't factor in too much. With the Yellow Cobra should Black Hole be applied? White Diamond would be the optimal glaze I'm guessing but would the BH help any? Both will get a good Claying to remove the surface contaminets. Before putting product on the pads should i give the pad a quick mist of QD+? I read that some do that but not sure why... Using PB Trim Restore on the trim and other exterior parts, seems like a easy application. I plan on using the line up first on the Contour(Toreador Red) just to get a good handle on how the products will work and how much product to use etc... Thanks for any input! I'll be sure to post before,during and after pictures too!

 

[BigLeegr]

Where did you read about a 12-24 hour cure time for Black Hole?

SSR1 is a final or finishing polish. It's used to bring up clarity/gloss. It's not really a defect removal polish.

EX-P should be allowed to cure a day or so, but you can do 2 applications in succession to ensure full coverage.

Black Hole will add some gloss, so it can be of value on yellow paint.

Priming a pad is to allow a product to spread more evenly/thinly.

 

[ronkh]

As above, but I like to do exp then another coat of exp a day later, then 24+ hrs after that start earning my title and hittin the wax

 

[Poorboy]

Going to be detailing a few cars in a month or so with PB products and would like a few tips and observations. 03 Ford Lightning in Sonic blue and a 04 Cobra in Screamin' Yellow. I'm familiar with Natty's Blue paste wax and will be using it as my topper. I purchased SSR1, Pro-Polish, Black Hole, and EX-P. I do not have access to a PC or any other type of machine for application/removal so all work will be done by hand.

SSR1-Pointless without a machine application? Not all of the body panels need it on either vehicle but would hand application work?
Black Hole- Cure time is 12-24hrs? Will be layering this and while it cures ill tend to other parts of the cars so time isn't a bother also vehicles will be garaged during full detail.
EX-P- Can be layered aswell and same cure time as Black Hole?

I understand to not let any of the products dry but to haze over and test by the finger swipe. Temps will be around 70-90 with 70+ humidty which I hope won't factor in too much. With the Yellow Cobra should Black Hole be applied? White Diamond would be the optimal glaze I'm guessing but would the BH help any? Both will get a good Claying to remove the surface contaminets. Before putting product on the pads should i give the pad a quick mist of QD+? I read that some do that but not sure why... Using PB Trim Restore on the trim and other exterior parts, seems like a easy application. I plan on using the line up first on the Contour(Toreador Red) just to get a good handle on how the products will work and how much product to use etc... Thanks for any input! I'll be sure to post before,during and after pictures too!

Where did you read about a 12-24 hour cure time for Black Hole?

SSR1 is a final or finishing polish. It's used to bring up clarity/gloss. It's not really a defect removal polish.

EX-P should be allowed to cure a day or so, but you can do 2 applications in succession to ensure full coverage.

Black Hole will add some gloss, so it can be of value on yellow paint.

Priming a pad is to allow a product to spread more evenly/thinly.

Basically you have a good start here... all the products listed will be great on both Red and Yellow

wash
clay
Pro Polish ..work until it practically disappears
Black Hole .. work in and then let haze and then buff .. no curing time..
EX-P ... two thin coats like Bigleegr said .. then let it set for 12-24 hours minimum
Natty's Blue ...two thin coats ..with no waiting between coats

Follow directions on the bottle as to which applicators should be primed and which ones not...

looking forward to the pictures 8)

 

[csvtjohnga]

Well if SSR1 isn't going to remove much because of it's properties should I order some SSR 2/2.5? Hm, what else should I pick up (lol)? The Lightning is a DD and the first two owners were less then nice to her. The Cobra is garage kept and has always been so there isn't much that should be needed other then a clay and then proceeding with the detail without a swirl remover or other major defect remover. Understand the priming now, thanks! I did some reading that the EX-P needed a cure time and also that the person using Black Hole allowed for a cure time aswell, didn't know if it was needed. My arms are going to hate me by the end of the first day.

 

[Poorboy]

PP and SSR1 are almost interchangeable .... working SSR's by hand will not yield a swirl free finish unless you have a lot of time and work literally inch by inch and use maybe hand pads with varying aggressiveness ..like an orange and white hand pad or you can use the PP with the hand pads.

 

[BigLeegr]

By hand I'd suggest Pro Polish instead of SSR 1. It's also versatile in that it can be used on plastics, metals, glass etc. I showed it to a guy to use on his chrome rims and he couldn't believe how easy it was to use and how nice his rims looked.

If you don't have a "Hand Jobber" or similar device with various coarsenesses of pads, you may get good results using a high quality cotton towel to apply the polish. Cotton has more "bite" than either a MF cloth or a yellow foam hand pad.

 

[csvtjohnga]

Well, seems like I'm going to just work the Pro Polish into the paint the best I can. Purchasing a machine of any kind, buying pads, learning how to use isn't in my current budget. The Lightning does need some go fast parts so that'll come first, lol. Thanks for the input everyone, should be leaving Iraq in about 3 weeks so maybe beginning of Sept I'll be able to start this project.