Pad life

[rdhamill]

I started buffing my car this weekend, using a new yellow LC pad. Just as I was finishing off, the backing came off of the pad.
I'm wonder if you guys might have some hints as to what caused this.

Could I have gotten it too hot for to long?

thoughts?
ideas?

thanks

 

[heck]

HEAT!!
Caution:One pad will not do a complete car.
Polish a panel, clean pad on the fly, polish next panel, clean pad etc.
Make sure you not using to much product, about Three pea sized spots on the pad.
Hope this helps...

 

[sscully]

What did the defects look like that you went all the way to yellow.
- I have 2 new in the bag still, and only have them for when the MF cutting pads with compound won't do the job.

What did you have it on ?
- PC 7424, Flex, Rotary, etc

what compound where you using on the pad ?

 

[Poorboy]

HEAT!!
Caution:One pad will not do a complete car.
Polish a panel, clean pad on the fly, polish next panel, clean pad etc.
Make sure you not using to much product, about Three pea sized spots on the pad.
Hope this helps...

What did the defects look like that you went all the way to yellow.
- I have 2 new in the bag still, and only have them for when the MF cutting pads with compound won't do the job.

What did you have it on ?
- PC 7424, Flex, Rotary, etc

what compound where you using on the pad ?

great feedback guys :smt023 we stopped carrying yellow a few years back as it is just too aggressive on clear coats.
Orange or Foamed wool can both do a lot of cutting and real wool if you are using a rotary... more info will help others help better

 

[ronkh]

What color bmw ? In my short time detailing, I have never had any use for a yellow pad. What type of machine? Heat is probably the answer since it is so aggressive it also causes a lot of friction. friction = heat. what polish/compound were you using? Do you have any paint left on the car ?

 

[rdhamill]

The car was our '04 Civic winter beater, tons of swirls, a few scratches and a bit oxidized.
The polish I started with was Poorboy's Professional Polish, on the yellow pad, then moved to SSR2 on a white pad. Then to Black Hole with a black pad.
then waxed. All on a 7424
The results are great.
I suspect I heated the pad to much trying to get some nasties out of the front fender.
The project was an experiment on a car we don't care allot about, had some sort of overspray on it that the clay bar got about half of.

thanks for the replies.

 

[Pockets]

What size backing plate and pad were you using? Did the backing plate cover the entire Velcro surface area of the pad you were using?

In all the pad failures I have seen they were because the improper backing plate size was used (too small) and therefore excess strain was placed on the pad and glue causing it to fail.

 

[rdhamill]

What size backing plate and pad were you using? Did the backing plate cover the entire Velcro surface area of the pad you were using?

In all the pad failures I have seen they were because the improper backing plate size was used (too small) and therefore excess strain was placed on the pad and glue causing it to fail.

6" pad with a 5" plate.

thanks

 

[Poorboy]

yes, that is your answer ... I would suggest a new 6" backing plate

 

[sscully]

I am shocked that you got the marks from the yellow pad out of the paint with SSR2 on a white pad, without needing to step to an orange pad w/ PP 1st.

If you got the defects out, great you should not have to do that again.

Next time, in addition to the correct size backing plate & pad combo ( stick with 5" pads and 5" plates on the PC ) take a little time to do the defect removal.

I did my sister's 2001 Honda with a MF cutting pad and compound, but it had never been detailed before, and she is not the best with washing, and this was a quick pass with the MF cutting pads & Compound and then to the MF polishing pads with polish.

I would expect that you had to spend quite a bit of time with the white pad & SSR2 to get the marring out that the Yellow pad put into the paint, those are brutal pads.

 

[rdhamill]

thanks for all the help guys!

 

[Beercan31]

The car was our '04 Civic winter beater, tons of swirls, a few scratches and a bit oxidized.
The polish I started with was Poorboy's Professional Polish, on the yellow pad, then moved to SSR2 on a white pad. Then to Black Hole with a black pad.
then waxed. All on a 7424
The results are great.
I suspect I heated the pad to much trying to get some nasties out of the front fender.
The project was an experiment on a car we don't care allot about, had some sort of overspray on it that the clay bar got about half of.

thanks for the replies.

rdhamill


this caught my eye and I'm surprised no one here noticed it. we have a great group here that has amazing knowledge.


you stated you did Pro polish w/ yellow pad then moved to SSR2 on a white pad

the truth of the matter this set up is almost equal in aggressiveness, pro polish is a chemical cleaner/polish which is pad dependent, meaning the more aggressive the pad with Pro-P the more aggressive the the cut.

SSR-2 with a white pad.. the SSr is the aggressor and the pad is the medium to carry, both of your line-ups are close to being equal in cut, I'm thinking the SSR-2 is slightly more.

if you use the SSR and the white pad as your first step and them jump to Pro-P with a LC Green, Black or Blue pad your going to see amazing results.

when choosing your pad line-up you also have to take in account the product pad combo changes the aggressiveness of the combined, a light cut pad can not make a medium cut product less aggressive.


hope this helps
good luck with your pad backing problem.

 

[rdhamill]

rdhamill


this caught my eye and I'm surprised no one here noticed it. we have a great group here that has amazing knowledge.


you stated you did Pro polish w/ yellow pad then moved to SSR2 on a white pad

the truth of the matter this set up is almost equal in aggressiveness, pro polish is a chemical cleaner/polish which is pad dependent, meaning the more aggressive the pad with Pro-P the more aggressive the the cut.

SSR-2 with a white pad.. the SSr is the aggressor and the pad is the medium to carry, both of your line-ups are close to being equal in cut, I'm thinking the SSR-2 is slightly more.

if you use the SSR and the white pad as your first step and them jump to Pro-P with a LC Green, Black or Blue pad your going to see amazing results.

when choosing your pad line-up you also have to take in account the product pad combo changes the aggressiveness of the combined, a light cut pad can not make a medium cut product less aggressive.


hope this helps
good luck with your pad backing problem.

Perfect thanks.

I wish i could find some sort of chart for these things. it's easy to know about the aggressiveness of the pads, but the product information about most of the polishes and glazes seems lacking in detail.
I have the same sort of issue with waxes, they all claim to create a great shine and last a long time, but there is no scale. Nor do many of them have product information that tells me if the contain cleaners or not.
I have to visit a forum to get information about certain products, as generally speaking the manufacturers claim the products work great and last forever.

thanks again.