Not too sure if your MY is the same clear coat as the newer body style BMWs, they have a very hard clear coat.
Do not get discouraged right away if you cannot correct the marks out of it. It is not you, it is the clear coat.
Rollingrock did one a few years ago, this is where I found out what I was up against.
http://poorboysworld.net/board/show...5-LI-no-dial-up-lots-o-photos&highlight=green
thread title : Black Sapphire 745 LI, no dial up, lots-o-photos
He went outside the suggested boundaries on using the product, so take the info in that thread with a big grain of salt, and always use the less aggressive first route.
You might the path wallywax gave above with using Polish w/ Carnauba ( PwC ) blue does what you need.
Also I found that going at a dark color with Pro Polish and Black Hole will hide quite a few sins in the paint.
I tend to take my time correcting the paint ( as in over 2, 3 or more sessions ), as I am still living old school- grape vine about correcting too much and paint thickness. I am a big sissy that way, after seeing others ( not here ) jump to a rotary and trashing clear coat.
The Mrs's G6 I have been going at for 2 years now ( it was very bad; think the car wash she used prior to me, dipped the towels in silica sand prior to drying the car ). It is just about defect free, this summer should be the finish line.
Did not change the amount of correcting I did ( the defects were the same starting point, so I took the same amount off over time ) I just did it a little at a time. I did not want to over correct in one session, and I got used to how the paint worked, as I never did a GM paint before.
do you have machines or will you be working by hand? Do you have any pictures of the car and the condition it is starting in? Either way here are the basic products you would need to use. Professional Polish, Black Hole, EX/ or EX-P ,and Natty's Blue ...either by hand or machine, the technique will be the only difference and the amount of time to do it.