How to wax with Natty's in the cold

[Pockets]

Steve and I washed his car today and I decided to do a quick wax on it to show how to wax in the cold.

We washed it down with Super Slick and Wax than did a quick drive and dried the rest with Spray and Gloss and DMT towels.

Drying with DMT and Spray and Gloss

And so we begin

We have the temp and the clock to show you the Wipe on Wipe off process you use with Natty's and cold weather waxing. (The temp continued to go down it went down to 39 when we went inside and in Steve's truck it was 36)

Applying it to the hood in small sections half of the hood at a time

Remember keep it thin!

Time we wipe it off its just a wipe on wipe off its cold enough the oils in the wax set right up no need to sit.

Taking it off (Came off like butter)

Half and Half

Done and wiped off

Final shot

So tips to cold weather waxing with Natty's:

Do small sections at a time
Wipe on Wipe off

Oh P.S. Steve's camera sucks its 3.2 mega pixels lol so it doesn't do the Natty's Justice at all and we weren't setting up the shoot it was cold and we wanted to get inside lol

 

[Poorboy]

it was really cold out there :shock:

 

[BigLeegr]

it was really cold out there :shock:

Really? I don't see any "-" before the 40 degrees on the temperature gauge.

 

[norahcrv]

But they are tiny little F degrees!! :wink:

 

[Pockets]

Just some quick shots of the beading from the snow we had two days ago

 

[sscully]

Any idea when this application process stops working ?

i.e. When is it too warm for the oils in the wax to step up, and it becomes a waiting game again.

I am asking, is 55* too warm to use the one and right off ?

 

[wallywax]

I find that natty's blue works great if I let it sit for awhile or if I buff off right away. Hot or cold it still works great. Very easy to use.

 

[sscully]

OK, good to know.
I did not find this is in the searches I did, but that does not mean that I used the correct term.

Bit OT, I found in searches, EX / EX-P has a 1 hour flash / cure time on it. Would you say this is correct also ?

 

[BigLeegr]

The waxes are meant to be allowed to dry to allow it to "bond" but it doesn't need to "cure" like a sealant. When it's warm out, if you were to apply and remove too quickly, it will likely be a bit harder to remove and the life of the applied wax may be compromised.

 

[sscully]

The waxes are meant to be allowed to dry to allow it to "bond" but it doesn't need to "cure" like a sealant. When it's warm out, if you were to apply and remove too quickly, it will likely be a bit harder to remove and the life of the applied wax may be compromised.

I'm a bit confused now, Pocket's post above indicated that the oil in the Nattys sets up right away in the cold, no drying time needed. Looks to be ~ 60 seconds to apply it to the hood ( 4:23:15 to 4:24:19 ) and ~ 50 seconds to remove it ( 4:24:19 to 4:25:05 ).

The other morning in the garage I tried this ( found this ~ week back, checking what I should heat the garage to in doing the full on ) at ~ 57* and found 1 panel at a time I could go on and off straight away, without any smearing issues.
I got in the zen and the art of waxing mode, and did too many sections, went back to take it off, and found the Natty's blue dried ( came off about as normal ).

The life span of the wax, this was not included in the topic, so that could be the case here.

 

[BigLeegr]

As I mentioned, "when it's warm out." Pockets was showing an alternative method to get good results (but not necessarily optimum) given less than perfect weather conditions (cold). If you were to try the wipe on/off method when it is warm/hot out (spring/summer) you won't likely get the same results as you will when doing this during the winter. I was answering your question about waiting an hour before applying another coat of wax. Wax doesn't need to have an hour wait between coats. Once you wipe one off, you can apply another.

 

[Poorboy]

there's no exact science to detailing, even though some would want you to think that, but if it works for you then keep doing it, if it isn't working then it's time to make some changes in your application methods. With Pockets, we were just trying to a prove a point. Would I normally wax when it's that cold, nope.. not a chance.

 

[sscully]

So I need to not sorry so much about application of Nattys, as it is more visual item than paint protection ?

- Don't know if that is even a correct statement; Given Nattys does have some sort of protection to it ( there is product left behind on the paint ) but that is not its primary function. ( ? )

Still trying to get to that sweet spot of correct usage and not burning through product for little or no return ( I know some might like this of every customer :mrgreen: )

Maybe in the colder temps I should focus more on completing the process, and then move to QW+ / QD+ instead of using SnW and Nattys again ( that is literally another thread onto itself ).

 

[rabbi]

I've been detailing cars for years using Poorboy products(SuperSlick and Suds,PP or PwC,WD or BH,EX-P, PB's wax) in 40 degree weather but not any lower.40 degrees is my cutoff temperature when I start. Never had a problem yet.

 

[Poorboy]

So I need to not sorry so much about application of Nattys, as it is more visual item than paint protection ?

basically you wipe it on in thin layers, let haze depending on variables like temperature and humidity and wipe off = 2-3 months protection sometimes longer ...

- Don't know if that is even a correct statement; Given Nattys does have some sort of protection to it ( there is product left behind on the paint ) but that is not its primary function. ( ? )

no, it has great wax protection and it is it's primary function ...

ie wax and sealant are basically sacrificial layers of protection that last a limited time and then should be removed and replaced with a fresh layer on a timely basis.

Maybe in the colder temps I should focus more on completing the process, and then move to QW+ / QD+ instead of using SnW and Nattys again ( that is literally another thread onto itself ).

It doesn't matter which method you choose, it's all personal preference. Either way the vehicle will look good

 

[wallywax]

Poorboys products are very easy to use and work great! Don't stress so much on proper application. I think you are doing just fine . A couple months ago I let EX-P sit over night on my stang. Silly me the next morning we had frost!!!! It has a pain to remove because of the frost but BOY did it leave some protection behind. It is still beading like a fresh coat of EX-P!

 

[Neston_Vasey]

I did mine the other day..............lets say it was around 19 in the morning, warmed up to around 34 by mid afternoon (once the sun came around to the front of my house), I managed to get my hose pipe to work so I snow foamed my car...............which the remains eventually froze on the path.

Anyway, quick wash & dry followed by some Natty's. Covered the whole car in it before re-visiting each panel sequentially. (2 hours time from start to finish)

and after a rain (which soon froze!)

Don't think I'll be rushing out to do the same thing too often, far too cold.......I now have a cold to prove it.

 

[Poorboy]

you are definitely O C D :smt082

 

[Neston_Vasey]

I'd be more inclined to say that after a 4 month wax test; the wax layer(s) on the car had depleted. With the amount of salt on the road this time of year I needed something protecting my paint.

It's more a sacrificial layer of Natty's until the weather improves rather than a detail. Need to wait till the end of March before I can give it a strip clean, but that layer of wax has brought back the 'bling' in the colour of the car.

 

[big-bailey]

today i used nattys blue in the cold ( about 5 deg C ) and was completely fine, just applied and allowed to haze, just before it hazed to white i removed as it was slightly easier but the end result was amazing


Fiesta Winter Detail by mattphotos23, on Flickr

Fiesta Winter Detail by mattphotos23, on Flickr