First Timer Questions

[Seymore]

I'm new to the detailing arena. I'm nearly 40 and although I've always thought I've taken pretty good care of my cars, after quite a bit of perusing of various detailing forums, it seems that my single bucket wash w/ cotton mit, drying with cotton towels, and a wax job is probably hurting my car's finish more than helping.

I bought an '04 Brilliant Silver G35 sedan about 6 months ago and I just love the car. I want to take care of it to the best of my ability for longevity purposes and I also want it to look the best that it can because I take pride in the car. Although the car is in very good shape, I have no idea how well the paint has been taken care of in the past (i.e. clay bars, polishings, etc.).

I chose Poorboys World products after a good deal of research because of the performance/price positioning and am very much looking forward to spending a couple of days on my cars (my wife drives an '03 Sandstone Mettalic Honda Pilot, we're the original owners) and seeing what a difference the right process and products can really make.

My products should arrive Wednesday (8/27) and I plan to spend this 4 day weekend (I'm off from Thursday at noon through Monday) detailing. I was going to use the Pilot as my "practice" vehicle and move to my G second.

I dropped nearly $200 on product, so a PC is out of the question at the moment (likely later). I have the following product arriving Wed:

Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay Special
Grit Guard Inserts (2)
PB Super Slick & Suds Concentrate
PB EX-P Pure Sealant
PB White Diamond
PB SSR1
PB Natty's Carnauba Paste Wax
PB QD +
Genuine Sheepskin Wash Mitt

I have a few microfiber hand towels and drying towels already. I have a Craftsman 10" buffer that I've used for years to apply and remove wax as well as buff.

Please tell me if anything I'm planning to do seems way out of line with any of you. I realize the Craftsman Buffer is an inferior machine for my purposes, but it's either that or everything by hand.

Here are my plans:
Thursday (28 Aug) afternoon - both cars
1) Use the 2 bucket wash system w/ Grit Guards, sheepskin mit, and PBS&S (measured).
2) Dry with microfiber drying towels
3) Leave garaged overnight

Friday (8/29) - Honda Pilot
1) Feel paint on both cars (w/ plastic bag)
2) If imperfections detected (I assume they will be) clay with Pinnacle ultra clay and lube
3) Check with Halogen spotlight
4) If swirls or scratches detected (I assume they will be) polish with SSR1
I plan to apply with Craftsman polishing bonnet and wipe clean with ISA water solution and microfiber towel
5) Apply PB White Diamond Glaze with Craftsman applicator bonnet and remove with Craftsman terry bonnet
6) Apply PB EX-P sealant with Craftsman applicator bonnet and remove with Craftsman terry bonnet
7) Let sealant cure

Saturday (8/30) - repeat Friday's processes on G35

Sunday (8/31) - Honda Pilot
1) Apply PB Natty's with Craftsman applicator bonnet and remove with Craftsman terry bonnet
2) Buff with Craftsman lambswool buffing bonnet

Monday (9/1) - repeat Sunday's process on G35

I plan to use the QD+ after regular washes weekly to maintain the shine between details. I think I read the the White Diamond can be used in this manner as well?

Does this make sense? Should I just throw away the Craftsman and do everything by hand? Are my application plans in the correct order? Do these steps make sense to use on both vehicles? The Pilot isn't really a light vehicle, but I wouldn't call it dark either. Anything I'm missing?

Thanks in advance for your advice; I appreciate the sanity check.

Peace.

 

[BigLeegr]

I have the following product arriving Wed:
Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay Special
Grit Guard Inserts (2)
PB Super Slick & Suds Concentrate
PB EX-P Pure Sealant
PB White Diamond
PB SSR1
PB Natty's Carnauba Paste Wax
PB QD +
Genuine Sheepskin Wash Mitt
I have a few microfiber hand towels and drying towels already. I have a Craftsman 10" buffer that I've used for years to apply and remove wax as well as buff.

Please tell me if anything I'm planning to do seems way out of line with any of you. I realize the Craftsman Buffer is an inferior machine for my purposes, but it's either that or everything by hand.

To be honest, you don't have anything too powerful for scratch and swirl removal. SSR1 is a finishing polish. Nothing else listed has any corrective abilities. I think you may be disappointed with the marring reduction. The White Diamond may help with some hiding, but it won't hide deeper stuff.

5) Apply PB White Diamond Glaze with Craftsman applicator bonnet and remove with Craftsman terry bonnet
6) Apply PB EX-P sealant with Craftsman applicator bonnet and remove with Craftsman terry bonnet
7) Let sealant cure

I would apply both the White Diamond and EX-P by hand unless you have a foam bonnet for your buffer. The applicator bonnets (unless they are different from the ones I used years ago) are very flat, almost like paper. They get soggy fast. I didn't like them all that much. Foam would be a better option, if it's available to you.
The terry bonnets may actually cause more marring than you remove. Even though they say 100% cotton, they sometimes have polyester/nylon in them too. Also, they are fairly thin/not plush. The loops have a tendency to ball up with wax/dead paint and can abrade against the paint. I would actually use the polishing bonnets instead, since they are microfiber.

Craftsman lambswool buffing bonnet

Sadly, I think it's not real lambswool. It's likely synthetic. Again, could cause more marring to the paint. If you see leather on the non-fluffy side, then I guess it really is lambswool. I'm guessing you'll see a "fabric" mesh sort of deal. I wouldn't recommend it.

Does this make sense? Should I just throw away the Craftsman and do everything by hand? Are my application plans in the correct order? Do these steps make sense to use on both vehicles? The Pilot isn't really a light vehicle, but I wouldn't call it dark either. Anything I'm missing?

Your buffer may help you with the application of product evenly and thinly and allowing you to work a product longer than you might otherwise be able to by hand. The biggest problem is that it doesn't have the "Oomph" to do correction, especially with the bonnets that are typically available. The MF bonnets are a good start, though. See if you can find some foam bonnets too.

Overall, with what you have, you can expect (realistically) to have a glossy/shiny car that looks pretty good from a few feet away. Since your 1 car is silver, the color itself will not accent the marring. If you had a black car, then you'd really see the differences. As is, as long as you aren't going to start looking for every flaw (like under your halogens) you may well be quite happy with the results. If you are excpecting renewal of your paint, I don't think it's going to happen.
But, I wouldn't throw the buffer out either. As I said, it can help you work a product longer and spread it more evenly/thinly than you may be able to by hand.
Good luck!

 

[Seymore]

Thank you for your response.

To be honest, you don't have anything too powerful for scratch and swirl removal. SSR1 is a finishing polish.

Yeah - I went with a finishing polish for now, for two reasons. 1) to date, I haven't noticed any swirls or marring for that matter (I haven't looked with a halogen yet) and 2) I'd like to get a PC before I start getting too agressive (if I eventually determine that it's even needed). I just figured there's got to be, at least some, very minor swirls/marring and so with my craftsman and SSR1 it would be better than nothing until I can get a PC and LC pads. Maybe that's a flawed line of thinking?

The terry bonnets may actually cause more marring than you remove. Even though they say 100% cotton, they sometimes have polyester/nylon in them too.

I was thinking you might say that, I just wanted to run it past you to be sure. Frustrating that one company sells a product they advertise as completely safe when in fact it's not. The microfiber bonnets are hard to find and more expensive, but I hear ya.

I'm certainly not a fanatic about my paint, but I'm looking to bring out more of a shine and the flake than my old practice of washing and waxing would result. I guess it seems like this overall approach (with your suggestions in mind) would be a step up from what I used to do, until I can get a PC, some LC pads, and something like SSR2 (as needed) down the road a bit.

Thanks again.

 

[Seymore]

Alright, everything is mostly going to plan. Ended up being more work than I expected so I'm simply giving the Pilot a good PBSS&S washing, applying a coat of QD+, and going over the trim.

As for the G35. I layed a coat of EX-P on Friday, so it has cured for 36 hours or so. I drove it some Saturday and, believe it or not, went over a couple of dirt roads (just creeping), so it's pretty dusty. I want to finish up this process this morning with a coat of Natty's and then go over all exterior trim on both cars with B2B.

Do I need to use a 2 bucket wash on the G, dry, and then apply Natty's? Would I see better results by applying a coat of QD+ after drying but before Natty's? Can I get away with simply rinsing it with a high pressure spray or should I do the full (granted quick) wash?

Any thoughts? Could use a quick response if possible; am heading out to finish up in a couple of hours.


Thanks

 

[Seymore]

I just decided to to a quick wash with the suds and did not use QD+, just did a last coat of Natty's White. The Pilot I just rinsed, dried, and then used QD+.

 

[BigLeegr]

And were you happy with the results or are you going to be redoing stuff?