Bewildered

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vuldub

Guest
I'm a hobbiest, not a pro. I have a Portercable 7424 dual action, variable speed polisher, lake country 6.5" pads (black, blue, white, orange and yellow), Meguiars clay, terry cotton bonnets, foam bonnets, simulated lambskin bonnet, sheepskin bonnet and of course Poorboys products (SSR1, SSR2, SSR2.5, SSR3, and PwC). I have detailed two 10 year old cars with excellent success, but only used a portion of my arsenal. This was my process:
1) clay
2) SSR1 with white LC pad on portercable (speed 5)
3) wipe off SSR1 by hand with terry cotton, then microfiber clothes
4) stubborn scratches I used SSR2.5 on orange LC pad on PC (speed 5), wipe off as in step 3, then repeat steps 2 and 3 over these areas
5) apply Meguire TechWax 2.0 (because I didn't know which Poorboys product to use - the PwC has wax, but I already polished) by hand, the buff with terry bonnet on PC (speed 5), then finish by hand with a microfiber cloth.
Results were very good, but I'm sure that my process could be better.

Questions:
1) Is there a one stop guide to using Poorboys products? All the SSR say the same thing: Removes: Light Swirls, Oxidation, Fine Scratches and Over-Spray. When to use which one?? Of course the higher the number the more aggressive, but what are the guidelines?

2) Which pad for which product? It would seem that more aggressive product should pair up with a more porous (coarser) pad, but it's not clear to me.

3) What are all the different bonnets for?
-Foam (application of product? I already have foam pads, what would a foam bonnet do??)
-Simulated lambskin?
-Sheepskin?

4) If I want to use PwC, do I treat it like a wax or a polish? On with a machine? Off with a machine? Does it follow SSR or is it meant to be a complete one step solution?

5) I applied the wax (TechWax) by hand, buffed out with a terry bonnet and finish with a microfiber cloth - is there better way to apply and finish the wax?

Thanks in advance
Regards....Wes
 
G

Gus-Gus

Guest
to answer question 1.. there isn't really a guide... what you want to do is try to use the least aggressive pad combination with the least aggressive product and work from there.. if you can get away with removing swirls and marring with a black pad and ssr 1 then you have less work to do with your next step.. as an example start with ssr1 and try your softest pad.. if that works.. go with that.. if not go to the next step up.. i know Lake County pads are Red black white and Orange in order from least aggressive to most aggressive.. so step it up to a more aggressive pad.. if that works.. then run with it.. so if a white pad with ssr1 works.. then you can move onto the next step and from what you stated you have PWC so use PWC on a black pad if you have any minor marring or swirls left over and that should take care of the lighter stuff

i honestly wouldn't use a wool bonnet to remove products that Steve puts our because they are so easy to remove.. a good quality microfiber should be all you need..

Polish With Carnuba should be treated as a polish... it just has the added benefit of wax for protection at the end.. a coat of wax as another step after is always a good idea but yet again it depends on what pad aggressiveness you use with it.. I really need a lot more time to really explain this so i will see what Steve has to say as he is looking at this thread and i will work on a more thorough post..
 
V

vuldub

Guest
Thanks Gus.
If the SSR1 does a good job, should I still follow with the PwC or go directly to wax?
If I just use the PwC and want to wax after, which Poorboys product should I use?
Regards
...Wes
 
BigLeegr

BigLeegr

Token Brute and Chief Bottle Washer
Staff member
You can follow SSR1 with PwC, but if the finish is good enough for you, you may as well use your "pure" wax or sealant and save the PwC for when you want a little cleaning action as well as protection.

After waxing with PwC, you can use any of the Natty waxes. Some people use EX or EX-P afterwards, but I don't think they last as long this way.
 
G

Gus-Gus

Guest
BigLeegr said:
You can follow SSR1 with PwC, but if the finish is good enough for you, you may as well use your "pure" wax or sealant and save the PwC for when you want a little cleaning action as well as protection.

After waxing with PwC, you can use any of the Natty waxes. Some people use EX or EX-P afterwards, but I don't think they last as long this way.
Click to expand...

BL is right since the PWC has carnuba in it Ex and EX-P being sealants have a hard time bonding to wax.. so its pretty pointless to top a wax with a sealant.. After a proper curing time of about 24 hours for EX or EX-P nattys red or blue make an awesome topper!
 
R

ronkh

Da King
Gus-Gus said:
BL is right since the PWC has carnuba in it Ex and EX-P being sealants have a hard time bonding to wax.. so its pretty pointless to top a wax with a sealant.. After a proper curing time of about 24 hours for EX or EX-P nattys red or blue make an awesome topper!
Click to expand...

That's got my vote.
 
G

Gus-Gus

Guest
apply by hand with a white applicator pad.. and then remove by hand with a microfibre cloth
 
BigLeegr

BigLeegr

Token Brute and Chief Bottle Washer
Staff member
Some people take the wax out of the tub and rub it onto a finishing pad, then apply it via machine. Another way would be to use a hand applicator to get some from the jar to the car then spread it around with the machine.

Personally, I would stop after the PwC then after my next washing I would apply the Natty's.
 
V

vuldub

Guest
BigLeegr said:
Some people take the wax out of the tub and rub it onto a finishing pad, then apply it via machine. Another way would be to use a hand applicator to get some from the jar to the car then spread it around with the machine.

Personally, I would stop after the PwC then after my next washing I would apply the Natty's.
Click to expand...
Lee: I don't have issue with applying it by hand, but it's nice to buff off with the portercable. Is Nattys receptive to this?
 
Poorboy

Poorboy

Founder
Staff member
i think the problem with removing wax with a machine is that there is too much friction and you are going to basically remove almost everything you applied...but you can do it if you like to wax often and long protection is not the issue at hand
 
R

ronkh

Da King
Don't get caught up with the "machine"........

True waxes should be done lovingly by hand.

Remember, the pc works by providing cut by the pad, and friction by speed....

Friction = heat

Heat = melted wax
 
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