polish after swirl removal??

[dads gt]

I'm wondering if it is necessary. Would it be OK to just wash the car after swirl removal??? or should I polish to enhance the shine before I apply my LSP's

 

[Rollingrock]

I'm wondering if it is necessary. Would it be OK to just wash the car after swirl removal??? or should I polish to enhance the shine before I apply my LSP's

I think the answer is "it depends"

Did you use one of the SSR's? If so I would recommend you polish after an SSR.

Most full details are taken from this base:
Wash
Clay
Paint Correct
Polish
Glaze (Optional)
Seal (Optional)
LSP

As for the Depends part: After you did the Swirl removal do you see any hazing or dullness? There are lots of ways to skin a cat and you kind of need to be the judge of outcome after each step but again, I recommend polishing after doing any paint correction.

 

[dads gt]

thanx for reply...I will be using ssr's for sure

here is my plan of attack... Lc orange pad ssr 2.5
white pad ssr 2.0 to correct haze
polish either PBPP or AIO
sealant EX-P
wax Natty's blue

When I polish do I use the white pad or black???

 

[Rollingrock]

thanx for reply...I will be using ssr's for sure

here is my plan of attack... Lc orange pad ssr 2.5
white pad ssr 2.0 to correct haze
polish either PBPP or AIO
sealant EX-P
wax Natty's blue

When I polish do I use the white pad or black???

If it were me, this is what I would do. Those Orange LC VC pads are tricky.

SSR2.5 is also kind of tricky, are you going to polish out the 2.5 with SSR1? I would. Pending the condition of your surface and sight unseen this is hard to properly diagnose....but SSR3 and 2.5 need to be stepped down. So I would use SSR2.5 with Yellow LC VC then a Green LC VC with SSR1, then PB PP with a White LC VC.

For EX-P, I would jump to Blue LC VC pad. Then LSP by hand.

What pads do you have or going to buy? And how many of each?

It sounds like you are somewhat new to PB products....given that, you need to be aware that using SSR3 or 2.5 will and can dull the finish....thus the reason to step down and polish out the correction. It will freak you abit and make you scratch your head....its normal. I would add that using SSR3 and a Yellow Lake Pad needs some attention and care. I would check your work often. That is a pretty aggressive combo. So is Orange with SSR2.5.....so what I am saying is just be careful and detail smart.

More than happy to help so keep the questions coming....if you have photos of the surface that would help...try in direct sun or under high powered lights.

 

[dads gt]

Thanks Rollingrock..the pads I'm getting are LC ccs 6.5. Yellow being the most aggresive cut and Blue being the finese pad...u probably knew that already

I don't want to use the yellow but step down to the orange and use 2.5 and then 2.0 with the white pad, to correct any hazing, but like u mentioned maybe I should skip 2.0 and use 1.0 with either the orange or white pad and from there use PBPP with a white pad. How is that???

My finish isn't too bad and the colour is Black!!!

I going to have 1 orange
2 white
1 black pad Is this enough pads for the job???

 

[Rollingrock]

Thanks Rollingrock..the pads I'm getting are LC ccs 6.5. Yellow being the most aggresive cut and Blue being the finese pad...u probably knew that already

I don't want to use the yellow but step down to the orange and use 2.5 and then 2.0 with the white pad, to correct any hazing, but like u mentioned maybe I should skip 2.0 and use 1.0 with either the orange or white pad and from there use PBPP with a white pad. How is that???

My finish isn't too bad and the colour is Black!!!

I going to have 1 orange
2 white
1 black pad Is this enough pads for the job???

Ok, here would be my plan given what you said.

I would almost skip the 2.5 and just get the SSR2 and use with Orange, then step down to SSR1 with the Green or White. (White is the work horse of lake pads) Then PB PP with another white Lake pad or Black. then go to your glaze step or seal step then LSP.

There are many ways to skin a cat and again sight unseen its hard to say.
Can you try and get a photo in the direct light?

Remember, even marred finishes can reflect, its under the lights how you really determine the condition.

 

[BigLeegr]

Thanks Rollingrock..the pads I'm getting are LC ccs 6.5. Yellow being the most aggresive cut and Blue being the finese pad...u probably knew that already

I don't want to use the yellow but step down to the orange and use 2.5 and then 2.0 with the white pad, to correct any hazing, but like u mentioned maybe I should skip 2.0 and use 1.0 with either the orange or white pad and from there use PBPP with a white pad. How is that???

My finish isn't too bad and the colour is Black!!!

I going to have 1 orange
2 white
1 black pad Is this enough pads for the job???

Yellow will def. haze the paint. Esp. noticeable on black. As already stated, it's hard to say without seeing. I've been able to polish out winter marring on my black car with SSR2 and a polishing pad, but I usually have my paint in better shape than the majority of cars out there, so it didn't need as much correction.
If you are going to use SSR1, you could likely skip using PP (or skip using the SSR1 and use just the PP). Little different looks, but both would work as a final polish.

My opinion would be to try using the SSR2 with a polishing pad. If that didn't work, use it wth the orange pad (will haze the paint some though.). If this still doesn't work, move up to SSR 2.5 and a polishing pad. And if THAT doesn't work, try SSR 2.5 and the orange pad. If you use the orange pad, expect to step down to a polishing pad and the next least aggressive polish to clear up the haze.
I always think using the least aggressive method will leave the most paint on your car.
Obviously, try each combo on a small area, not the whole car. Take some time and don't treat the polish like a wipe on/off product. Go slowly and let the polish work.

 

[dads gt]

Thanks for the help guys!!! I will take the advice of trying the least aggresive method, to correct the problem. I was told by someone to hit it with 2.5 with an orange pad and then try to correct the hazing with 2.0 and a polishing pad...perhaps a little to much for my car.

I will tackle this with the advice from the pro's here.... :lol:

Maybe something like this....white with 2.0 and see if this works, if not move up to 2.0 with orange and so on.

So basically the orange pad causes the hazing,,,will it cause hazing with 2.0 or 1.0 , PP

Does the polishing pad cause any hazing???

Thanks again I'll try to get some pics this weekend :lol:

 

[BigLeegr]

Orange pad will likely give you hazing even with something as "gentle" as PwS. Black just shows it more readily.

The polishing pad shouldn't give you hazing unless you
a)don't let the polish break down properly (go too fast). Or
b)use SSR3. :shock:

 

[Rollingrock]

Thanks for the help guys!!! I will take the advice of trying the least aggresive method, to correct the problem. I was told by someone to hit it with 2.5 with an orange pad and then try to correct the hazing with 2.0 and a polishing pad...perhaps a little to much for my car.

I will tackle this with the advice from the pro's here.... :lol:

Maybe something like this....white with 2.0 and see if this works, if not move up to 2.0 with orange and so on.

So basically the orange pad causes the hazing,,,will it cause hazing with 2.0 or 1.0 , PP

Does the polishing pad cause any hazing???

Thanks again I'll try to get some pics this weekend :lol:

Maybe these threads will help
http://www.poorboysworld.net/board/viewtopic.php?t=739

http://www.poorboysworld.net/board/viewtopic.php?t=795

Also, check out LittleMissGTO's threads on Black Paint...she is a magician.


On those threads above you can clearly see the "hazing" that SSR3 and a Yellow Lake pad yields. I also explain my process for these situations based on the condition of these particular trucks.

 

[dads gt]

Orange pad will likely give you hazing even with something as "gentle" as PwS. Black just shows it more readily.

The polishing pad shouldn't give you hazing unless you
a)don't let the polish break down properly (go too fast).

^^^^what is a good speed for polishing???...or does it depend on the task at hand

 

[dads gt]

Thanks again I'll try to get some

Maybe these threads will help
http://www.poorboysworld.net/board/viewtopic.php?t=739

http://www.poorboysworld.net/board/viewtopic.php?t=795

Also, check out LittleMissGTO's threads on Black Paint...she is a magician.


On those threads above you can clearly see the "hazing" that SSR3 and a Yellow Lake pad yields. I also explain my process for these situations based on the condition of these particular trucks.

Some good threads there. definitely some tough work which turnrd out great!!! My paint isn't nearly that bad, so a yellow and quite possibly an orange pad may be too much!!

I'm going to have to experiment a little..whats the worst I can do :shock:

 

[BigLeegr]

Orange pad will likely give you hazing even with something as "gentle" as PwS. Black just shows it more readily.

The polishing pad shouldn't give you hazing unless you
a)don't let the polish break down properly (go too fast).

^^^^what is a good speed for polishing???...or does it depend on the task at hand

About 5, I'd say. You can go to 6 for some tougher areas, but I don't typically go over 5.

(By "go too fast" I meant arm speed, not PC speed. If you go zipping across the paint, you aren't working in the polish, you are just smearing it around.)